By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR
It doesn’t take much work to understand how Katie Leonardini got into wine. As one of five siblings living in San Francisco, she piled into the family station wagon in the late 1970s for weekend winery visits, racing through vineyards as her parents sampled wine. Her father, Tom Leonardini Sr., was Italian, and he presided over grand Italian dinners prepared by her Irish mother. Too young to drink alcohol, she was asked by her father to read aloud each bottle’s label. Little did she know that those recitals became her first lessons in wine regions, grape varieties, and producers.
In 1987, her father opened a wine shop, forging ties with winemakers and estate owners. By 1993, those connections led him to purchase Whitehall Lane Winery on the edge of St. Helena. Katie graduated from Gonzaga University with a master’s degree in education, then built an 8-year career in financial services in San Francisco. Wine was still her father’s business as she married, relocated to Napa, started a family and helped out at the winery.
Then one day she found her 84-year-old father packing boxes in his office. “I’m leaving. I’m done,” he told her. “It yours,” he said as he handed over ownership of the winery. She didn’t see it coming. She is the managing member; her brother, Tom Leonardini II, is vice president in charge of distribution.
Now at the helm of a thriving Napa Valley estate, she admits the industry isn’t as robust as when her father expanded the business. Family-owned wineries are struggling as younger generations opt out, consolidation accelerates, and grapes sometimes go unsold or are sold in bulk at unprecedentedly low prices. Katie often hears offers of $10 a gallon for unsold grapes, but she won’t budge. Other family operations that aren’t as well positioned, she fears, may soon sell or close. Even at deflated prices, it is tempting for struggling operations to call it quits when market optimism is low.
“But Dad set us up well,” Katie says. “He never liked to borrow, so we’re debt-free. And he didn’t want partners.”
Whenever a good deal arose, he acquired more vineyards—mostly in Rutherford on the valley floor. Today the estate includes the original Leonardini Vineyard plus five additional sites, including one in Sonoma Valley. They supply sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, petit verdot, merlot and the winery’s flagship cabernet sauvignon.
We enjoyed the 2021 Whitehall Lane Napa Valley Merlot ($40) that was chock full of black cherry, cassis, and plum flavors with hints of licorice and dark chocolate. The fine tannins gave this reasonably price merlot good backbone.
Among the buyers of her fruit is J. Davies, who bottles extraordinary and pricey cabernet sauvignon from Leonardini Vineyard.
Though nothing is guaranteed, she takes heart that the brand will stay in the family. Her son was so drawn to the winery that he joined after high school, working stints at Gallo’s Louis Martini and at estates in South Africa, New Zealand, Chile and beyond.
“It’s not just a business,” Katie says. “It’s my life now.”
J. Lohr
J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines is unabashedly one of our favorite domestic wine brands. In business since 1974 under various iterations, Jerry Lohr consistently cranks out consumer-friendly California wines from several appellations and is currently ranked 18th in California wine volume.
Most of our favorite wines from J. Lohr are made in Paso Robles where consumers can often find great values and quality. The J. Lohr Chardonnay Riverstone Arroyo seco Monterey 2023 ($12-15) is a very refreshing white wine with citrus, apple and a touch of creamy oak notes. Very drinkable and a great value.
The ubiquitous J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Oaks Paso Robles 2022 ($17-20) is one of the all-time dependable California cabernet sauvignons. Deep, rich and vibrant with generous cherry, berry notes and a light hint of oak in the finish. The wine exhibits a very pleasurable, youngish, bright fruit package.
The J. Lohr Pure Paso Red Wine Paso Robles 2023 ($27) is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. Dark and deeply colored with big rich berry notes in a very smooth package. Very tasty now but should age well for a minimum 3-5 years.
J. Lohr Petite Sirah Tower Road Paso Robles 2022 ($35) is a proven winner of a grape varietal in J. Lohr’s hands and for those looking for and intense mouth-filling, fruity experience. Blueberries jump out along with a mélange of other berries and ripe cherries. A bold tasting experience.
Port for spring
Although we are preparing to enter spring and summer soon our interest in port does not slacken. Slightly chilled for warm weather months, a glass of aged tawny or ruby port can offer enjoyment in our households equally in June or December.
We recently re-visited Graham’s Tawny Ports. The 10-Year-Old Graham’s Tawny Port ($46) presents more cherry notes along with grilled nuts and a bit of dried fig. The Graham’s 20-Year-Old Tawny Port ($80) is one of our favorites, albeit at a higher tariff. More dried fruit notes with accents of orange nuts. Either one of these fine ports is a crowd pleaser, but pay attention to the alcohol, which is half the strength of some distilled whiskeys.
Hot Blood
We have been impressed occasionally by celebrity attempts to endorse and even make wine. Recently, the Icelandic band Kaleo’s lead singer JJ Julius Son has associated himself with a French winemaker, Maison Wessman, and created a red and white wine with an iconic label featuring an agape, screaming young man. Gimmicks don’t normally work for us, but an affordable price and subsequent tasting got our attention. Following are our impressions:
Hot Blood Chardonnay Pay’s D’oc by Robert Wessman 2023 ($17) was a very pleasant wine to taste with pear and peach notes. All stainless steel in a very easy to drink style.
Hot Blood Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon Bergerac Rouge Maison Wessman 2022 ($17). This blend is 70 percent merlot, 20 percent cabernet sauvignon, and a dash of malbec. Cherry cassis notes with light oak and tannins.
Wine picks
Kaiken Disobedience Red Blend Mendoza Argentina 2020 ($32). An interesting blend of mostly malbec, cabernet franc and merlot with aging in new and used French oak barrels. A very user-friendly wine to taste with cherry and plum notes in a very smooth presentation. A delightful red wine.
Aluvia Cabernet Franc Gualtallary Mendoza 2022 ($30). The essence of the cabernet franc grape shines through this red wine. Deep plum notes with an intriguing streak of herbal energy highlight this very interesting wine from Dona Paula.
Disclaimer
Artificial Intelligence Disclosure & Legal Disclaimer
AI Content Policy.
To provide our readers with timely and comprehensive coverage, South Florida Reporter uses artificial intelligence (AI) to assist in producing certain articles and visual content.
Articles: AI may be used to assist in research, structural drafting, or data analysis. All AI-assisted text is reviewed and edited by our team to ensure accuracy and adherence to our editorial standards.
Images: Any imagery generated or significantly altered by AI is clearly marked with a disclaimer or watermark to distinguish it from traditional photography or editorial illustrations.
General Disclaimer
The information contained in South Florida Reporter is for general information purposes only.
South Florida Reporter assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions in the contents of the Service. In no event shall South Florida Reporter be liable for any special, direct, indirect, consequential, or incidental damages or any damages whatsoever, whether in an action of contract, negligence or other tort, arising out of or in connection with the use of the Service or the contents of the Service.
The Company reserves the right to make additions, deletions, or modifications to the contents of the Service at any time without prior notice. The Company does not warrant that the Service is free of viruses or other harmful components.
