Trying South African Wines Again

By Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr

As much as we advise people not to fall into ruts when it comes to drinking wine, we too lapse.  We have our likes – pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, etc. – but we also have our dislikes – German rieslings and South African pinotage.

While we have good reasons for what we avoid – German rieslings are too sweet and South African pinotage are too green – there is just reason to revisit the wines on our “do-not-drink” list at least to ensure that there has been no change. And that’s what we did when we were invited to a tasting of South African wines.  Maybe because we didn’t set our sights high, we were pleasantly surprised by a lineup of white and red wines.

South Africa’s wine industry – largely confined to the Western and Northern Cape – has had its struggles. Like the rest of the world, the vineyards were devastated by phylloxera in the 1860s.  When replanting began, it was done with an eye to quantity for quality. The primary grape was cinsaut which was over-produced and largely ignored. Then came trade sanctions from its apartheid policies in the 1980s. Not until Nelson Mandela was released in 1990 did we begin to see South African wines in the U.S. market. Then came covid which shut down the industry for two years. Today, South African wines are back on the market but still struggling to compete with a sea of wines from European countries.

The Cape region enjoys a Mediterranean climate and southwesterly winds in the spring and summer that protect the grapes from mildew.

We enjoy the chenin blancs the most. A 2021 Seward Chenin Blanc we tried was lean and minerally with citrus, melon and stone fruit notes. Atypical of what you expect from Loire, these chenin blancs are very dry and riper.  They are great as an aperitif or served alongside fish dishes.

Chenin blanc has been the most widely planted grape since cinsaut fell from favor.

South African producers are also fond of blends. We liked a 2020 Keermont Blend Terrasse, an eclectic mix of chenin blanc, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, roussanne, marsanne and viognier. From the esteemed Stellenbosch region, it had generous citrus and apple aromas followed by delicious peach and vanilla flavors.

Producers here know they have to adopt recognizable grape varieties, such as chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, to become more recognized. The Capensis Chardonnay from the Western Cape was delightful but at $63, consumers want something more than it delivers.

Many producers think the country’s future is in pinotage because it is unique to South Africa. However, it has its critics who are loud and often persuasive.

Pinotage is a cross between pinot noir and cinsaut. While it is prolific and reliable, in its worse form it takes on vegetal flavors.  We generally find it uncomplex and one-dimensional. It seems to beg for some other grape varieties to give it more depth and character.

We did enjoy the 2017 21 Gables Pinotage ($38) but preferred the blended 2020 Neethlingshof Estate “The Owl Post”, a mix of pinot noir and cinsaut.

Given the region’s maritime influence and mountain ranges, the future in the wine industry may be with European grape varieties rather than the indigenous pinotage. We saw that in a colossal 2013 Frans K. Smit Red Blend ($129) that brought together cabernet, merlot, cabernet franc and shiraz – no pinotage. But at this price, there will be few takers.

Bandol

The small but important appellation of Bandol is often forgotten for its stellar red wines. A part of Provence, it is primarily known for its roses which account for 65 percent of the region’s wine production.  But its red wines, driven by the mourvedre grape, can be stunning for their richness and depth.

We recently participated in a tasting of seven red wines from this region.

By law, mourvedre has to make up at least 50 percent of the blend but the best producers use more than 70 percent.  The other primary grapes are grenache and cinsault with some syrah and carignan. Mourvedre’s thick skin provides high phenolic compounds, dark color and significant tannins.  Grenache and cinsault play a role in moderating the tannins. Its thick skins serve as a buffer to late harvest rains.

Known as monastrell or Mataro in Spain, mourvedre is widely grown in the Rhone Valley and Roussillon regions of France as well as in the United States and Australia.

We recently tasted seven red blends from Bandol and noticed a consistency in their rich, garrigue, peppery and anise style. The wines were tannic, dark and delicious but a bit too similar for us.

Here are a few we liked:

Domaine Tempier Cuvee Classique 2019 ($54). Tempier is one of the top, most reputable producers in Bandol.  Its single-vineyard wines are ageworthy but difficult to find and expensive. This cuvee of 75 percent mourvedre and a mix of grenache and cinsault is fermented in concrete vats and aged in oak for 18 months. Herbal and flower aromas are followed by concentrated dark fruit, pepper and mineral flavors.

Domaine de Terrebrune Terroir du Trias 2015 ($44). We were fortunate to find a bottle of this with some age.  But we are certain the 2019 would be equally good – just in need of some aging. Mourvedre makes up 80 percent of the blend.  Round, blackberry and raspberry flavors.

Domaine du Gros Nore 2018 ($50). This blend is made up of mourvedre (80 percent), grenache and cinsault from 30-year-old vines. Full-bodied, savory and thick with blackberry and plum flavors with hints of rosemary and pepper.

Wine picks

Scharffenberger  Brut Rose Excellence ($29). This beautifully textured sparkling wine from Mendocino County is a great value. If you want the champagne experience without paying for it, this is it.  Raspberry aromas and peach flavors. The blend is 55 percent chardonnay and 45 percent pinot noir.

Alma Rosa Caracol Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2020 ($85).  The Sta. Rita Hills region may be one of our favorites for pinot noir. The 2 ½-acre plot that is the source for the grapes is planted in a radiating pattern to a variety of clones and rootstocks. Each row gets as different exposure to the sun. The wine has good acidity, black cherry flavors and a nice dose of spice. Soft mouthfeel and a lingering finish.

Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($26). This wine from Chile’s Apalta Valley is worth every penny. Expressive cassis, currant and black cherry aromas with bright cherry flavors.