The Wines Known As “Rutherford Dust”

There may be no other place in Napa Valley – or California for that matter – which can

claim the remarkable success in making premium wines as Rutherford. Some of the state’s most historic wineries share precious space with newcomers who have sought their place in one of the most fertile and climate-blessed regions. It is here where some of the best and most long-lived cabernet sauvignons in the world are made.

Among the legendary winemakers in the Rutherford AVA are Beaulieu, Inglenook, Heitz, Caymus, Staglin, Peju and Quintessa. As valley floor vineyards took up the most fertile ground, many of the newcomers have had to find new property up the mountain slope where it is harder and more expensive to grow the Bordeaux grape varieties.

Located south of St. Helena and just north of Oakville, Rutherford is smack dab in the middle of Napa Valley. Most of the vineyards are planted in the valley floor where soils – created by the retreat of San Pablo Bay — vary from clay to gravelly loam. It’s the latter soil that is most desired because it allows for better drainage.

Abundant sunshine allows the grapes to fully mature and damp fog and winds from the bay cool off the grapes in the late afternoon. Although Napa Valley was among the oldest regions settled by winemakers, it wasn’t until 1993 that Rutherford was declared an appellation.

Jeff Cole, director of winemaking for Sullivan wines, says there is no other place he’d rather be making wine. A native of Napa Valley, Cole appreciates his experience in other California regions but feels fortunate to be making great cabernet sauvignons at Sullivan, a small-production winery now owned by Juan Pablo Torres-Padilla and a family-driven group of investors.

“The cabernet sauvignon is very unique here,” Cole said. “The tannins are more pronounced and up front. There is no astringency or bitterness either.”

The region is most famous for its “Rutherford dust,” a phrase coined by Russian émigré Andre Tchelistcheff, whose hand has touched a number of historic wineries in Napa Valley — most notably Beaulieu Vineyards. He was talking about granular or “dusty” tannins that couple with cocoa powder to give the Rutherford AVA its unique properties. While many of the red wines from this region are immense, they are not plagued by bitter tannins that take decades to resolve.

Cole said the challenge of the area is finding the right pockets best suited for high-end cabernet sauvignon. These are not the pockets of clay soil but the well-drained deep gravel and loam. The damp soil in the valley increases vigor in the vineyards, he says, so attention needs to be applied to thinning and trellising.

The flavors here tend to be of darker fruits – cherry and cassis – with savory, earthy and mineral elements, good acidity and on occasion a touch of mint that is common in Napa Valley.

We recentlly opened a 2007 HALL cabernet sauvignon and it still had not shed its tannins. With vineyards in Rutherford at the base of the Mayacama Mountains, HALL makes excellent, long-living cabernet sauvignons and shows the longevity of wines from this region.

Another reliable Rutherford producer is Frank Family Vineyards, now housed in the historic Larkmead Winery. Winemaker Todd Graff says he likes the diversity of the appellation.

“Our Winston Hill Vineyard on the eastern banks of the Vaca Range, ripens on the earlier side and is loaded aromatically with black fruits and purity of cabernet. Whereas, our Benjamin vineyard on the valley floor is a mid to late ripener and has more blue and red fruits with great energy in the palate. We prefer to keep those interpretations stylistically different with individual bottlings.”

Alas, the cost of vineyards in this region and its history has led to not just the best cabernet sauvignons, but also the most expensive. Here are a few of the colossal wines we have tasted from the Rutherford:

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  Gamble Family G. Thomas Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ($205). Winemaker Tom Gamble named this incredible wine after his father George and his grandfather Thomas who created the family wine legacy. Although expensive and allocated, we list it because it shows not only the potential of the Rutherford AVA but also of this excellent Oakville producer. Strawberry, raspberry and cassis highlight this dense and savory wine. Cabernet franc and petite verdot mix with the cabernet sauvignon to provide a layered and powerful blockbuster.

• Sullivan Rutherford Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ($110). Full bodied, this Rutherford cabernet exudes richness. Great structure, lasting but fine tannins, plum and blackberry flavors with layers of cedar, tobacco, herbs and red currants.
• Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ($145). We have enjoyed this iconic wine for decades. Although the property has undergone ownership changes since we first tasted it, the reserve cabernet remains among the best in its lofty category. A wine that can age for 15 years or more, it draws from some of the best vineyards in the AVA: BV Ranches 1 and 2, first planted in the 1900s by Latour himself. Always concentrated, this reserve Bordeaux-grape blend is highly layered with fresh raspberry, dark cherry and cassis flavors with hints of cedar and cinnamon. The soft tannins are a good example of the “Rutherford dust.” BV also makes a Rutherford cabernet sauvignon that at $44 is a good buy. About 80 percent of the grapes from the ranch vineyards and this wine has the same cocoa powder tannins that symbolized Rutherford dust.
• Frank Family Vineyards Rutherford Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($95). This is an immense wine that shows the structure and power that comes from the Rutherford region.  Loaded with plum and blackberry flavors and dalliances with espresso, dried herbs and a touch of mineral. Fine and cocoa powder tannins make it approachable in its youth but promise a long future. Also drawing from Rutherford fruit is the 2015 Frank Family Winston Hill red blend that uses Bordeaux varieties from the producer’s top vineyard. Rich and dense in texture, it is a balanced wine that again offers the black fruit character with a hint of vanilla.

Wine picks

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  Chehalem Pinot Gris 2018 ($20). We were very impressed with this fresh and delicious pinot grisfrom the Willamette Valley. From the Chehalem Mountain AVA, the wine offers ripe pear and floral aromas with stone fruit and pear flavors.

• Pagosde Galir Godello 2017 ($17). You all need to drink more godello. From the Valdeorras region of Spain, godello is similar in style to chardonnay with a smooth, delicious texture but a different profile. Floral and fruity with notes of apples and white peaches with a dash of raisins and lime.