By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR
Red Bordeaux wines are often considered to be too costly. Prices for some of the top tier Bordeaux wines make headlines usually focused on first growth grand crus, such as Chateaux Lafite Rothschild or Chateau Margaux.
Today more than 7,000 chateaus produce wine in Bordeaux even though only 61 were included in the 1855 classification of grand crus. Although many of the classified growths can be expensive, thousands of them are not. The average consumer can afford Bordeaux.
Bordeaux’s 57 appellations produce more appellation controlee wines than any other wine growing area in France. A plethora of wines from these many non-grand crus are available in the U.S. and savvy consumers can find high-quality, relatively low-cost enjoyment. Labels for these value-oriented wines vary, but in general look for Bordeaux, Bordeaux Superior, Cotes De Bordeaux or simply Medoc.
Historically, only six red grapes were allowed in Bordeaux red wines. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc make up 89 percent of the grapes cultivated. Merlot dominates at 66 percent. Petite verdot, malbec and carmenere round out the group. But in the last couple of years new, heat- and disease-resistant grape varieties were introduced to accommodate climate changes.
Recently, we tasted three red Bordeauxs from the excellent 2018 vintage. The three spanned both banks of the Gironde estuary and were constituted with different grape combinations to offer an interesting glimpse of the region. All were typical of our past tastings of moderately priced Bordeaux and confirmed our belief in their terrific price value.
Chateau de Panigon Medoc 2018 ($20). Almost an equal split between cabernet sauvignon and merlot with a dash of petite verdot, this wine showed more structure and was a bit reticent – maybe because of its significant use of cabernet sauvignon. Cherry and black currant notes, soft tannins suggest improvement with a little aging.
Chateau Hyot Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon 2018 ($15). Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon abuts St. Emilion and uses a similar mix of grapes. Mostly merlot with a bit of cabernet franc, this wine displays bright cherry notes with a slight floral note.
Chateau de Ribebon Bordeaux Superior 2018 ($15). This is another Right Bank offering with plum and cherry elements and a hint of leather. Composed of 80 percent cabernet franc, this wine was our favorite.
Here are two other inexpensive Bordeaux from the current 2019 vintage:
Madame de Beaucaillou 2019 ($25). Using grapes entirely from the Haut-Medoc, this wine from Ducru-Beaucaillou has spirited fresh cherry and currant flavors.
Margaux de Brane 2019 ($25). From Henri Lurton of Brane-Catenac, this vibrant, merlot-driven wine has a youthful red fruit character and is worth every penny.
Dough Wines
Dough Wines is a part of the Distinguished Wines collection assembed by several wine growers that include Markham, Argyle, MacRostie and Textbook. We were unfamiliar with the reasonably priced Dough Wines brand but excited to share our impression.
Dough Wines Chardonnay North Coast, California 2020 ($18). This is a very well-made balanced chardonnay featuring pineapple and citrus notes and a hint of spice. Very reasonably priced.
Dough Wines Pinot Noir Oregon 2021 ($22). A beautifully crafted Oregon pinot noir that offers a bit more fruit than many pinot noirs. Sweet and tart cherries are balanced in this friendly wine.
Dough Wines Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast California 2019 ($22). This wine features a cornucopia of fruit notes. Cherry, berry, plum and even a hint of mocha all combines to create a very drinkable wine.
Wine picks
Argyle Spirit Hill Vineyard Blanc de Noirs 2019 ($60). Composed of 85 percent pinot noir and 15 percent pinot meunier, this sparkling wine from one of the most respected producers in the Willamette Valley scores big with freshness and depth. Aged entirage for 43 months, it has a lot of boldness with bright cherry and grapefruit flavors and a hint of spice.
Yalumba The Y Series Pinot Noir South Australia 2022 ($15). A nice surprise from Australia that’s not known for its pinot noir production. Strawberry with a bit of cranberry is present with very soft tannins. A bigger style of pinot noir than many but a very pleasing package.
Anakena Nuna Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Chile 2020 ($12-15). A terrific value for the quality of this fine wine. A very serious wine that proffers plum and cherry notes and easy drinking moderate tannins.
Gaja Sito Moresco Langhe 2019 ($55). Everything Angelo Gaja touches turns to gold and this simple yet serious nebbiolo from Piedmont sports cherry and raspberry flavors.
Poggio al Tesoro Sondraia Bolgheri Superiore 2019 ($90). Who says Italian wine producers can’t make great wine using the noble grapes of France? This blend of cabernet sauvignon (65 percent), merlot and cabernet franc show off youthful, bright dark fruit with richness and complexity. It will age for another decade but tastes great now with beef.
MacRostie Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022 ($38). This reasonably priced pinot noir is nice to just sip by itself, but its generous black cherry, plum and cranberry notes give it great depth to match with a wide range of foods.
Miraval Provence Rosé 2022 ($21). Despite the acrimoniously split between Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt that engulfed this estate, the Miraval continues to outperform in the rosé category. A lively blend of cinsault, grenache, syrah and rolle, this juicy wine has copious citrus the strawberry notes.
Chateau St. Jean Los Carneros Chardonay 2021 ($43). The cool winds off San Pablo Bay provides a long and improved growing season for chardonnays from the Carneros. We enjoy them for their richness and elegance but also for this one’s tropical fruit mineral flavors.
