By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR
Italy, the largest wine-producing country in the world, is the home to a plethora of grape varieties. The Italian government has authorized more than 350 grape varieties for commercial grape production out of about 500 varieties grown there.
Compare this to the second largest grape-growing country in the world (France), where about only 60 grape varieties are commercially grown.
Two of the more obscure red Italian grape varieties are lagrein and schiava. Mention these grapes to most wine consumers, even Italian wine aficionados, and you can expect a blank stare in return. Grown in Trentino in northeastern Italy, this area is better known for the ubiquitous usually bargain-priced slaker of thirsts, pinot grigio.
This cool climate growing area lies hard against the Dolomite and Alps mountain ranges. Although the majority of residents speak Italian, fully a third speak German due to the region’s former pre-war Austrian government.
Schiava grapes produce a lighter style of red more akin to pinot noir than cabernet sauvignon, while lagrein yields a more fruity wine akin to syrah.
Following are our tasting notes:
Abbazia Di Novacella Schiava Alto Adige 2022 ($20-25). This light-colored red wine exhibited a light ruby color. Very much in the style of a pinot noir but with more acidity. No oak all stainless steel. A spicy nose with cherry notes and a hint of cedar. Delicious!
Tramin Schiava Suditrol Alto Adige DOC 2021 ($20-25). Very light in color almost like a dark rose. Notes of pomegranate dominate with bracing, palate-cleansing acidity in this wine aged in stainless steel.
Colterenzio Lagrein Suditrol Alto Adige DOC 2021 ($22-25). This wine displays a plum nose with dried cherries and pomegranate notes on the palate. Soft tannins and a very pleasant mouth feel. Elena Walch Vigna Castel Ringberg Riserva Alto Adige ($55-60). A hint of flowers with ripe black cherries. Very full and rich. Our favorite but it isn’t fair to compare a riserva with a non riserva
Exploring Italy we keep discovering odd bits of wine trivia as we taste its wines. Recently, we came across another wine region that produces wines worth considering.
Nestled in southern Tuscany immediately below Montalcino lies Monteccuco. It doesn’t even show up on many wine maps of the region. Maybe that is because it was only recognized in 1998 as a DOC and achieved DOCG status in 2011. Sangiovese, as in most of Tuscany, is the star here and proved to us that it is worthy of recognition. Vineyards here only produce about 3 tons per acre and grow in volcanic soils from an ancient eruption.
These wines can be hard to source. However, we believe they are worthy of consideration due to their mostly modest pricing and distinctive quality.
We recently tasted three wines from this region.
The first was a Montecucco Rosso the Poggio Stenti Montecucco Rosso DOC 2021 ($15-18). Montecucco Rosso must contain at least 60 percent sangiovese grapes. This example is also blended with a bit of cabernet sauvignon and aged in stainless steel tanks. The result is a delicious black cherry elixir that is just plain fun to drink.
The La Banditaccia Vigna Allegra Riserva Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2018 ($20-25) was a classic Tuscan wine with dried cherry notes and a hint of cedar in the finish. Aged in large Slavonian wood casks for 14 months, it is somewhat reminiscent of a good quality Rioja reserva.
Our favorite of the trio was the Cartacanta Basile Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2018 ($15-20). This wine featured less wood than the La Banditaccia, presenting ripe cherry notes in a delicious fresh package. A great value.
Other Italian gems
Sallier de la Tour Nero d’Avola Sicily 2020 (($16). Nero d’Avola rules Sicily and this one has fresh red fruit character with a dose of licorice and spice. Its firm tannins make it an inexpensive choice to serve alongside beef and other grilled meats.
Surrau Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 2020 ($27). From Sardina, this eclectic blend of indigenous grapes offers a a medium-bodied, fruity wine with bright red fruit character. Included in the blend is cannonau, muristellu and carignano grapes. Very unique and pleasant.
Tenuta Regaleali Lamuri Nero d’Avola DOC 2019 ($21). This wine from Tasca Conti d’Almerita is a classic expression of Sicily’s top indigenous grape. Soft tannins, good balance, and loads of accessible dark fruit flavors with an earthy feel. Delicious to drink on its own or to pair with a meat-based pasta.
Sodale Merlot Cotarella IGP Lazio 2020 ($25-30). We really enjoyed this very soft expression of merlot from the region around Rome. A very enjoyable table wine featuring cherry and berry notes with very soft tannins.
Wine picks
El Coto Coto de Imaz Reserva Rioja 2018 ($20-25). 100 percent tempranillo grapes this red wine balances that knife edge of oak and fruit that some Riojas get wrong. Ripe plums and cherries with a hint of mocha makes for a terrific drink.
Goosecross State Lane Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($90). This albeit expensive red wine delivers. A total package that offers cassis, black cherry, and a hint of mocha satisfies. Fantastic!
Decoy Red Blend Limited Alexander Valley 2021 ($30). The merlot and cabernet sauvignon come together nicely in this smooth and rich blend from a top-growing region for Bordeaux grape varieties. The merlot rounds off the cabernet tannins. Effusive aromas of cherry, clove and cinnamon hand off to ripe blackberry and black cherry flavors.
Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr, MoreAboutWine, posted on SouthFloridaReporter.com
Republished with permission
Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly wine column for more than 30 years. Additional Wine reviews on MoreAboutWine
All photos are randomly selected and do not indicate any preferred wine. Listed prices are subject to change and do not include tax or shipping.
You can send questions to Tom Marquardt marq1948@gmail.com
Always drink responsibly!
