Chardonnay’s Worth Tasting

By Tom Marquardt and PATRICK DARR

Most of you probably have not tasted wine made from airen grapes, even though it is the most widely planted white grape in the world. But we are sure you have tasted chardonnay – the second most widely planted variety.

Believed to have originated in Burgundy, chardonnay is thought to be a cross between pinot noir and gouais blanc and is grown in most wine-growing regions because of its universal popularity.

Without any intervention by the winemaker, chardonnay can be quite neutral.  Oak, climate and soil, however, contribute significantly to chardonnay’s flavor.  An unoaked chablis, for instance, is crisp and clean with obvious minerality.  But an oaked California chardonnay tends to be rich and bold with new layers of fruit that come from the barrels.

Chardonnay made in warmer climates like that of Australia takes on apple and pear notes. Where the summers are very warm, such as in the vast Central Coast of California, chardonnay shows tropical fruit notes.

While all chardonnay has some natural malolactic fermentation – a conversion of brisk apple-like acids to milk-like acids – winemakers often increase the amount to achieve softer acidity and a soft, buttery texture.

We see a lot of different styles of chardonnay and frankly are not wedded to one or the other.  But understand that the one you choose could have an influence on what you pair it with. For instance, a buttery chardonnay does well with creamy fish sauces while a nuanced, minerally chardonnay from, say, Chablis does better with white fish that does not have an overwhelming sauce.

Chardonnay can range in price from $15 to $75. Burgundy chardonnay is generally pricey, but you can still find deals in the Macon Village category.  While you can find Joel Gott and Clos du Bois for under $15, a few bucks more will get you a better wine.

Here are 10 chardonnays under $25 and 10 premium chardonnays for that special dinner.

Inexpensive

Angove Chardonnay 2021 ($20). Produced from grapes grown in the Mount Lofty range east of McLaren Vale, this pure chardonnay has citrus and apple notes with a long finish.  We liked it because it wasn’t over-oaked and had good balance.

Lohr October Night Chardonnay 2021 ($25). Always a good value and always delicious, this chardonnay has fresh citrus and peach notes with a dash of vanilla and a long finish.

Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay 2021 ($18). One of our perennial favorite chardonnays, this wine has loads of citrus aromas, apple flavors and touches of mineral and toasty oak.

Laetitia Estate Chardonnay 2021 ($25). Abundant apple and peach aromas hand off to a sweet melon flavor with a dash of lime.

Ritual Casablanca Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($21). We don’t think of Chile when it comes to chardonnay, but maybe we will after tasting this one. Grapefruit, lemon and tangerine notes abound. Good value.

Hahn Appellation Series Arroyo Seco Chardonnay 2021 ($20).  What a great deal.  Juicy stone fruit and pineapple flavors with a good dose of toasty spice.

Maddalena Chardonnay 2020 ($15). This nicely priced chardonnay comes from grapes grown in several appellations of Monterey County. Tropical fruit flavors are enveloped by a soft mouthfeel.

Bread & Butter California Chardonnay 2021 ($15). Very lush in the mouth just like “butter” implies, this wine has tropical fruit notes with hints of vanilla and almond.

Kendall-Jackson Vintners Reserve Chardonnay ($17). Soft on the palate with an easy, buttery mouthfeel and apple, and vanilla flavors.

La Creama Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2021 ($18).  Pear aromas are followed by pineapple and apple flavors with a dash of toasty oak.

Expensive

Beringer Private Reserve Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020 ($50).  This classic chardonnay is more complex than most with layers of stone fruit, citrus and tropical fruit flavors with a dash of minerality.

Waypoint Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 ($60). From a cool-climate Sonoma Coast vineyard, this chardonnay has a luxurious, sensuous mouthfeel with ripe tropical fruit flavors, lemon custard, spice and pronounced oak notes.

Ram’s Gate Estate Chardonnay Carneros 2020 ($76). This opulent chardonnay is luxury at first sip. Although several clones are used, it owes its personality to the Wente clone. Very aromatic with notes of melon and stone fruit. It spent five more months in the barrel than in previous vintages, which gives it more complexity and texture.  Round in the mouth but finishes with crisp acidity.

Frank Family Vineyards Carneros Chardonnay 2021 ($40).  Now in its 30^th year, this producer continues to knock out hits. We liked this chardonnay for its texture.  Only part of it goes through malolactic fermentation so it is crisper than creamy – a good balance to complement food. Apple and stone fruit notes.

Three Sticks Origin Durrell Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 ($75).  Using grapes from a very respected vineyard in Sonoma Valley, this balanced chardonnay has great purity with grapefruit, apple and lemon notes. The lack of oak fermentation keeps the fruit fresh and makes for a better food wine.

Flora Springs Winery Flora’s Legacy Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020 ($70). Frequent lees stirring and barrel fermentation keep this wine soft on the palate and full of tropical fruit flavor with hints of toasted almond and vanilla. Long finish.

Darioush Napa Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($60). With only half of this wine aged in new French oak, there is a certain leanness to the wine that isn’t overcome by heavy oak richness. The texture is still creamy and the pear, nutmeg and limestone notes are still abundant. We like its attitude.

Migration Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2021 ($44). Bright apple and citrus aromas with stone fruit, apple and custard flavors with a dash of toasted oak.

Newton Napa Valley Unfiltered Chardonnay 2021 ($60). This is not a buttery or over-extracted chardonnay that assaults the palate with vigor.  Instead, it is very flirtatious with subtle stone-fruit aromas that lure you into an expansive palate of ripe tropical fruit and peach notes. Hints of nutmeg and clove mingle with the finish.

VML Ritchie Chardonnay 2020 ($55).  From a single vineyard in the Russian River Valley, this premium chardonnay exudes luxury. Stone fruit notes with a hint of vanilla and spice.