Wines From The Shenandoah Valley – Yes, Virginia Wine

Twenty years ago we sipped wine from Virginia and wondered why anyone bothered. Although the state has a long history of grape growing, the quality never seemed to rise to a level equal to that of the West Coast. Maryland had the same problem, mostly because of challenging weather that was either too cold, too warm or too wet.

The wines have improved dramatically over the decades, as a recent tasting of several Petit Verdot’s proved.

Over the years, Virginia has capitalized on making its wine route a tourist destination. Rolling hills and beautiful tasting rooms beckon travelers from neighboring states and elsewhere. Its festivals and its heralded Governor’s Cup Competition has brought more attention to its success.

Jessica Gatewood, winemaker of Barren Ridge Winery said, “Virginia wine is evolving as we begin to know our soil and climate. There has been a lot of hits and misses over time. In the early 2000s, the focus was on viognier and cabernet franc. Now, there is a new evolution toward Petit Verdot. We’re learning from our mistakes.”

With climate change came more hospitable growing conditions in Virginia, but those winemakers who have shown success have focused on choosing varieties that grow best in their region. The two grape varieties gaining a strong foothold here are petit manseng, a rich white wine grape discovered in Southwest France, and Petit Verdot, a variety relegated to only a supporting role in Bordeaux.

We recently tasted a handful of Petit Verdots from four Virginia vineyards. The grape variety produces a dark purple wine with lots of body and tannin. It is generally characterized by blackberry and plum fruit with hints of spice, leather and chocolate.  The wines we tasted embrace that style, although in some cases we picked up some green pepper notes that we didn’t like so much.

Eric Schenkel, winemaker of Mountain Run Winery near Culpeper, said that Petit Verdot has no problem growing in Virginia’s climate unlike other grape varieties. He said the biggest shock was the amount of potassium. An excess amount can increase the pH of the must and lead to unstable wines. Adding tartaric acid helps, but also threatens to change a wine’s flavor.

Schenkel said as long as you keep these levels in check, the grape variety will produce astounding wines.

Rob Cox of Paradise Springs winery said the Petit Verdot stands up to Virginia’s humid summers.

“It can handle mitigating factors that can be vastly different between vintages,” he said. “Heat spikes create wines with more phenolic ripeness.”

Petit Verdot is emerging as the primary red grape of Virginia. Said Matthew Meyer, winemaker of Williamsburg Winery, “Everyone seems to be on the same wavelength. It’s exciting to see petit verdot emerge and being a part of defining it.”

Here are four wines to try:

Mountain Run Winery Petit Verdot Culpeper 2021 ($45).

Paradise Springs Brown Bear Vineyard Petit Verdot Clifton 2021 ($45).

Williamsburg Winery Reserve Petit Verdot Virginia Peninsula AVA 2021 ($49).

Barren Ridge Petit Verdot Shenandoah Valley AVA 2021 ($29).

Earth Day

As Earth Day approaches this Saturday, let’s give a toast to all those winemakers and grape growers who have adopted environmentally friendly practices.

It is no longer special for a winemaker to announce that his grapes are organically grown or that he has introduced biodynamic farming. The growth in organic farming attests to the value of adopting good vineyard practices – not just to the environment but to the quality of the wine. Sacrifices in flavor and body is no longer the fear associated with organic farming.

We are also noticing several winemakers who are using lighter glass for their bottles. Unfortunately, there are still too many winemakers who are using heavier bottles for their premium wines. Some winemakers feel that lighter-weight bottles give the impression of a cheap wine. But that’s no longer the case. There are winemakers who seal expensive wines with screw tops; they should be able to sell premium wines in lighter bottles.

Symington Family Estates, for instance, has adopted lighter glass bottles for many of its wines, including Six Grapes Reserve Port.

Wine picks

Lohr Estates South Ridge Syrah 2021 ($15). This wine, like many in the J. Lohr

portfolio, is a great value. Bright blackberry and cherry flavors with a hint of pepper and spice. Floral aromas and easy to drink. To keep it interesting, there is a bit of viognier, mourvedre, grenache noir and roussanne mixed with the syrah.

Frank Family Vineyards Carneros Pinot Noir 2021 ($40).  This soft and cuddly pinot noir from Sonoma County has generous black cherry and cinnamon aromas with ripe strawberry flavors.  Deliciously quaffable for any occasion.

MacRostie Sparkling Brut ($48). Only in its second vintage, this Russian River Valley cuvee of chardonnay and pinot noir is simply delicious. Citrus, pineapple and apple notes with a hint of toasted almonds.

Masi Riserva Costasera Valpolicella Veneto 2016 ($85). This classic amarone knocks it out of the ballpark with good concentration and ripe cherry flavors and hints of vanilla, cinnamon and clove.  It is a special cru made up of corvina, rondinella, molinara and osseleta.

Souleil Vin de Bonte le Rouge 2022 ($18).  This simple blend of grenache and syrah makes for a perfect quaffing wine as the weather warms. Black cherry and cassis flavors with a dash of pepper and rosemary. Great value.