By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR
A team of professional wine judges recently gathered to judge more than 620 Virginia wines from across the Commonwealth. The result delivered a slew of awards to 113 wineries, including one that received the Governor’s Cup Case. But the celebration was short-lived. The state experienced one of the worst early-season frosts that decimated the vines at the worst possible time.
Unseasonably warm temperatures caused an early bud break, only to be greeted with unseasonably cold nighttime temperatures that fell 20 degrees below normal. Vineyards in Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania and New York suffered irreparable, unsurvivable damage. Tender shoots that were so promising ruptured when ice formed within the plant cells.
While East Coast wines will take a breather in 2026, there are wines on the market now that deserve recognition. In particular, Virginia producers do a great job with the red cabernet franc and the white petit manseng. Here are several Virginia wines we recently tasted:
Glen Manor Vin Rouge 2023 ($37). This Bordeaux-like blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot is loaded with youthful red fruit character. Good tannins give it body.
Woodbrook Farm Vineyard Petit Manseng 2024 ($28). We loved this white wine—a perfect foil for summer fare. It has a melange of aromas ranging from mango to pineapple complemented by tropical fruit and citrus flavors. Match it with oysters.
Pollak Vineyards Monticello Reserve Merlot 2023 ($60). We haven’t been fans of East Coast merlot, but we’ll make an exception for this one. Using juice from select barrels, the producer has a 100-percent merlot with good depth and notes of black cherries and red currants. Good tannins make it a great match to beef.
Valley Road Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Franc 2023 ($42). Floral aromas are followed by dense cherry flavors with a hint of black pepper. Long finish.
Barboursville Vineyards Reserve Vermentino 2024 ($24). Very aromatic as one would expect from this white grape variety. Rich citrus notes and round mouthfeel with balanced acidity.
Fifty-Third Winery & Vineyard Two Springs Red Wine 2023 ($38). We liked this cabernet franc for its array of flavors: plum, black cherry, strawberry and even a little raspberry.
Barrel Oak Winery, Virginia
Virginia is an attractive area to visit for wine lovers. With over 300 active wineries and a rich history of early America and the Civil War, the state is an easy day trip from surrounding states. Many wineries are designed to receive visitors and educate wine lovers on the science and art of winemaking. As an added bonus, most wineries offer wine tasting opportunities to satisfy curious palates as well as the opportunity to purchase food.
Barrel Oak Winery and Brewery in Delaplane offers a family friendly atmosphere and a line up of red, white and rosé wines, sparklers and even a brewery experience. Like most Virginia wineries, Barrel Oak grows a mix of vinifera and hybrid grapes. Although we have not visited yet, we had the opportunity to taste a selection of their wines:
Barrel Oak Winery and Brewery Chardonnay Middleburg, Virginia 2022 ($30). This is a terrific unoaked chardonnay that presents lovely lemon and peach notes in a very appealing package. The oak is not missed.
Barrel Oak Winery and Brewery Sauvignon Blanc Paeonian Springs 2024 ($35). If you are tired of sauvignon blanc grapefruit bombs, this is for you. Lime tropical fruit notes dominate in a smooth package that is delightful.
Barrel Oak Winery and Brewery Seyval Blanc Estate Middleburg Virginia 2024 ($30). Seyval is a hybrid grape engineered for cool climate vineyards. Usually unoaked, this grape produces a white wine that lovers of sauvignon blanc or picpoul should enjoy. This example exhibits orange rind and juice notes in a round soft package. Very nice.
Barrel Oak Winery and Brewery Rose Middleburg Virginia 2024 ($31). A delightful blend of 65 percent chamourcin and 35 percent seyval blanc. The nose is reminiscent of sauvignon blanc and has flavors of citrus and strawberries.
Judgment of Paris
Chateau Montelena is marking the 50th anniversary of the Judgment of Paris with two special releases. The 1973 Chateau Montelena chardonnay was judged to be the best in the 1976 Paris competition, beating several white burgundies.
The releases include a 2023 Blanc de Blanc, crafted from chardonnay sourced from the John Muir Hanna Vineyard in Napa Valley—one of the three original sites that provided fruit for the winning entry—and Brandy Release #1 distilled from chardonnay sourced from all three original vineyards. See the chateau website for more information.
Cultured Vine and Freemark Abbey will host a blind tasting event marking the 85th birthday of the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting. The Oct. 5 Judgment of Napa will be held at the Freemark Abbey estate in Napa Valley.
Freemark Abbey was the only producer to have both red and white wine represented in the tasting.
New documentary
Warner Bros. Discovery has produced a wine documentary, “Stem & Barrel: Napa Valley,” that spotlights several wineries and winemakers, including Beaulieu Vineyard, Etude Wines and Frank Family Vineyards. Filmed during the 2025 harvest season, the program focuses on everything from the vineyard to the cellar. It is airing on Discovery+, Discovery Channel and the Cooking Channel.
Stem and Barrel documentary trailer
Wine notes
Carmen Delanz Carmenere D.O. Apalta Colchagua Valley 2022 ($30). A very expressive red wine with opulent notes of cherries and berries. Very elegant. A crowd pleaser.
La Casaccia Franceschi Brunello di Montalcino Il Poggione 2019 ($75-100). If you want to know what all the fuss is about brunello di montalcino, try this wine. A true classic with dried cherries and plum notes. A slight aged note, but this wine will develop for ages.
Azienda Agricola Le Ragose Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2021 ($65-75). A very complex wine with deep rich and concentrated plum and cherry notes with a hint of fresh berries. A real classic of the genre.
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