By TOM MARQUARDT And PATRICK DARR
Champagne producers have spent a lot of money and time distinguishing themselves from producers of sparkling wine. Champagne is after all a region and thus they are entitled to exclusive use of the name. Nonetheless, there is a host of similarities with sparkling wine made on the West Coast: they use the same grape varieties, the winemaking process is the same, they both have oodles of bubbles and they often cost the same.
Can we tell the difference? We usually can. The limestone soils of Champagne and the cold temperature there provide a certain flavor profile. Add to that centuries of winemaking and the ability to dip into reserves from previous vintages and you have something special in champagne.
As we head into the final lap of the holiday season, it’s the right time – and the most common time – to uncork some fizz. About 80 percent of the sparkling wine consumed is purchased in the last two months of the year, so join the crowd in finding the right wine to accompany a celebration.
We used to say the prices of French champagne are too high for most consumers, but the prices of many West Coast producers are often greater. Several champagnes – Nicolas Feuillatte, Pierre Peters, Montaudon, Pol Roger – can be found under $50 around the holidays. Compare that to $70 for many sparkling wines from Oregon and California.
Proseccos can be found under $20 and they have just as many bubbles, but the taste is hardly the same. They are made from glera grapes and are usually sweet. Cava, although inexpensive, is made from a variety of grapes native to Spain.
Before venturing into a store, consider your alternatives and your budget. If you are entertaining a crowd, you may not be able to afford expensive champagne. And, your guests may not care if it’s an expensive champagne or an inexpensive prosecco. Here are a few champagnes and sparkling wines to consider:
Champagne
Champagne Delamotte Brut ($71). This champagne house has been around since 1760 and continues to produce a series of terrific champagnes. This brut — a classic blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier – has green apple and pear aromas. The flavor profile is bread-like with apple, lemon zest and mineral. Good depth. The Delamotte brut rosé ($116) is also spectacular if you’re looking for something even more special.
Billecart-Salmon Le Sous Bois ($95). We have been fans of this producer for decades. Its rosé is a treat for special occasions, but this year we discovered Le Sous Bois. This cuvee of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier is vinified entirely in oak – very unusual. The result is a richly textured champagne with toast notes and flavors of apples and almonds.
Champagne Lanson Le Rosé ($85). Pinot noir dominates this well-balanced and fresh rosé made in the maison’s style. Some of the blend is from wines aged for more than 20 years, which adds to its character.
Champagne Henriot Brut Souverain ($60). One of our favorite champagnes for the price, this cuvee was created by Apolline Henriot in 1808. It is the house style with a blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and meunier. We’ve seen this priced for a lot less on sale.
Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage ($75). This non-vintage champagne is bold and fruity in style with a dependence on pinot noir.
Champagne Bollinger Special Cuvee ($95). The producer’s flagship wine, this cuvee is focused on pinot noir just like most of the champagnes from Bollinger. With ripe cherry and apple fruit flavors and a dash of citrus and ginger, it is very well-balanced.
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut ($42). Creamy mouthfeel with balanced acidity and citrus notes. One of the best buys in the champagne market.
Sparkling wine
Argyle Spirit Hill Vineyard Blanc de Blanc 2018 ($65). Drawing grapes from the oldest plantings in this special vineyard, this sparkling chardonnay from Oregon’s Eola-Amity Hills AVA shows off citrus and floral notes with a backbone of minerality. The producer also makes an outstanding 2013 Extended Tirage Brut ($85) that is special for its age and complexity.
Gran Moraine Yamill-Carlton Brut Rose ($60). Made in an elegant style, this sparkling wine has lime aromas and citrus, and tangerine flavors.
Etude Grace Benoist Ranch Blanc de Noirs Carneros 2019 ($60). Using grapes from the estate’s Grace Benoist Ranch, the producer has created a youthful sparkling wine with fresh red berry flavors and fresh acidity.
Goldeneye Brut Rose Anderson Valley 2019 ($70). The blend for this luxurious sparkler is 63 percent pinot noir and 37 percent chardonnay. We loved the generous raspberry and peach aromas that were followed by strawberry and citrus flavors. Creamy and long-lasting on the palate.
Frank Family Vineyards Blanc de Blancs Napa Valley 2016 ($60). Made entirely from chardonnay, this special sparkling wine has additional body age to give it elegance. Green apple, citrus peel and a dash of almonds. We also like Frank’s brut rosé ($60) for its ripe strawberry flavors.
Decoy Brut Cuvee Sparkling Wine ($25). Part of the deep Duckhorn Portfolio, this well-priced sparkling wine uses the traditional chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes grown in Champagne. The variety gives it broad appeal with apple and stone fruit flavors with a dash of vanilla.
Laetitia Brut Cuvee ($32). From the Arroyo Grande region, this producer adds some pinot blanc to the chardonnay and pinot noir grapes. Pear and bread notes dominate.
Chandon Brut N/V California ($26). Pleasant yeasty nose, ripe apple fruit, zesty acidity.
J Vineyards Cuvee 20 ($40). From the cool Russian River Valley, this wine shows off apple notes and balanced acidity.
Marques de Caceres Brut ($19). This Rioja cava is a light but refreshing sipper made from xarello, macabeo and parellada grapes. Apple notes.
Wine picks
Yering Station Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($37). This is a very rich and smooth chardonnay from Australia. Apple, tropical fruit notes.
Trapiche Medalla Chardonnay Oak Cask Mendoza Argentina 2021 ($26). Rich tropical fruit notes in an oak-shrouded smooth presentation.
Domaine Bousquet Single Vineyard Ameri Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($36). Herbal aromas, cherry and raspberry flavors with firm tannins and a hint of green pepper. Specific clusters from a single vineyard are reserved for this wine from one of the most reputable producers in Mendoza.
Cantine Pasqua Verona Lui Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($30). This wine from the Verona region of Italy has a floral bouquet and simple but lasting red fruit flavors with a good dose of spice.
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