Thanksgiving Wines

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

As we gather with friends and family to celebrate the upcoming holidays, it is important to recognize the spirit that brings us together and forget the spirit that pulled us apart. Perhaps with the election now behind us, we can all get back to convivial conversations that allow us to appreciate friendships. The advice that politics and religion have no place in social conversation still applies. We don’t know anyone who listens anyway.

Alcohol can play a nasty role in political debate – even among friends – but in small dosages it has a positive effect when the conversation is mindless and well-intended. It can make even the introvert loosen up. Of course, moderation is important, lest the party-goer reveal a little much about his recent affair or brag about her plastic surgery. Yep, we’ve heard that.

If the conversation is supposed to be light, so should the wine. Large gatherings don’t call for brooding wines that smother beautifully crafted appetizers. Consider what you are trying to accomplish. Aren’t you trying to make your guests happy, festive and appreciative of good food?

Put away the barolo. Instead, consider a pink sparkling wine or rosé to start the celebration.  We offer people these two choices when they walk into our holiday-decorated houses. First, the color complements the holiday. Second, the bubbles make the occasion special and even luxurious.

You don’t have to spend a lot of money on either wine. A pink cava from Spain or a pink prosecco from Italy can be found for under $20.  Rosé from France, Italy and Spain is no more expensive. If you are planning an open house or planning just light bites, these versatile wines can sustain imbibers for hours. Besides, the focus will be more on the conversation than it will be on the wine.

Some of your guests may not like either wine, so we suggest having a sauvignon blanc or chardonnay on hand as well as a light red. Pinot noir is expensive and may not be an economical choice. Consider a Rijoa from Spain, a barbera from Italy, a Cotes du Rhone from France, a grenache from Paso Robles or a shiraz from Australia. These wines have unique character but are reasonably priced.

Of course, your celebration may include a small dinner party and then the choices change. If you’re doing a romantic dinner of steak or fish, open the wallet. Splurge on something to put an exclamation point on the fabulous meal.

If the table is for eight or more, you don’t have to splurge. We have served expensive wines for dinner gatherings, only to be disappointed that no one commented on the wine. Rightly, they were focused on catching up with family. Wine is just a vehicle to get them into the conversation, so don’t overthink what you serve.  There is plenty of moderately priced wine that your guests will like and appreciate.

Here are some suggestions:

Sparkling rosé: Chandon California, Cune Cava, Francis Ford Coppola Prosecco, Josh Cellars Prosecco, Ruffino.

Still rosé: Legende des Toques Cotes du Rhone, Decoy, Gerard Bertrand, Chateau d’Aqueria Tavel, Souleil, Hogwash California.

Sauvignon Blanc: Murphy Goode, Justin, Decoy.

Red wine: Bodegas Beronia Crianza Rioja, St. Cosme Cotes du Rhone, Evodia Garnacha, Brecca Garnacha, Domaine Bouquet cabernet sauvignon or carmenere.

Special cabernet sauvignon: Chateau Montelena, Beaulieu Vineyards, Robert Mondavi.

Graham’s tawny ports                                                                                           

Graham’s have become our go to for aged ports. It is owned by the Symington family, a giant of the Douro Valley port trade, and includes stablemates Dow’s, Cockburn’s and Warre’s. Graham’s port includes vintage, ruby and tawny in many iterations to match taste preferences and pocketbooks. One of our favorite budget go-to is Graham’s Six Grapes N/V ($29) a delightful accessible easily sourced ruby port that is widely available.

The importance of Graham’s is so significant in the port hierarchy that for a vintage port to be declared Graham’s must also declare.

We have tasted many Graham’s ports over the years but our favorites are the line of Graham’s aged tawny ports that are offered from 10 to 50 years old. These wines can get pricey but you can tailor your selection to a comfortable price point based on the age of the tawny port. Keep in mind that although the older versions are pricey, it is very expensive to sit on inventory for decades. In addition, in the case of the 50-year tawny port, up to half evaporates over its aging process. It is also interesting to note that once a bottle is opened it should remain fresh for two weeks if refrigerated.

These wines also taste best chilled to about 55-60 degrees.

We recently tasted a selection of Graham’s tawny ports and following are our tasting notes.

Graham’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port ($40). A delightful wine featuring chocolate, cherry notes with nutty, honey elements.

Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port ($72). This is one of our favorites with cherry, toffee, brown sugar and orange zest notes. Very complete and satisfying.

Graham’s 40 Year Old Tawny Port ($275-375). This is a very elegant smooth port with nutty, coconut and a hint of orange elements.                         .

Graham’s 50 Year Old Tawny Port ($600). A very special wine revealing very round orange and chocolate with toffee. Elegant, mouth filling and unctuous.

Wine picks

Freemark Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($75). Blackberry and leather aromas with juicy black cherry and blueberry flavors with a dash of espresso.

La Crema Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($45). Known for its pinot noir and chardonnay, La Crema has now stepped into the world with its debut edition of cabernet sauvignon. Drawing grapes from several appellations, it has solid and well-integrated structure with plum aromas and juicy black cherry flavors with a hint of coffee.

Xanadu Circa 77 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2023 ($19).  Semillon blends so well with sauvignon blanc yet you see the combination mostly in Australia and Bordeaux. This beauty from the cool-climate Margaret River region of Australia offers a lot of fruit at a decent price.  Classic grapefruit flavors with hints of citrus and spice. Crisp acidity.