By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR
We have always admired the pinot noirs from Santa Barbara County. But, as we have gratefully learned, there’s more to this region than “Santa Barbara.” The more than 280 wineries here are broken into seven American Viticultural Areas. They have unique terroirs and weather to distinguish them from their neighbors.
We like all of these pinot noirs but hold a special place in our heart for those from the relatively small Sta. Rita Hills and AVA were designated in 2001 and oddly abbreviated to resolve a protracted legal battle with the Santa Rita winery in Chile. Tucked inside the larger Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Sta. Rita Hills benefits from its proximity to the Pacific Ocean. But the mineral, limestone and marine sediment soil also provide unique flavors.
For Samra Morris, Sta. Rita Hills is the premiere location for pinot noir and chardonnay, but the area is also gaining an attraction for grenache and syrah.
Morris is the winemaker at Alma Rosa, founded in 2005 by the legendary Richard Sanford and owned by Bob and Barb Zorich since 2014. The mountains here run east to west, unlike the rest of the region where they run north to south. That funnel from the Pacific brings thick morning fog and cool nights – ideal conditions to give a rest to sensitive grape varieties such as Pinot Noir.
Morris was born and raised in Bosnia but moved to California after her American husband was transferred from Eastern Europe to Travis Air Force Base in northern California. Always wanting to be a winemaker after studying food and vinification sciences at the University of Sarajevo, she started in a tasting room in nearby Napa Valley before working at St. Supery and Michael Mondavi Family Estate. She took a job as an assistant winemaker at Alma Rosa in 2019 and stepped into the head winemaker’s role just before harvest.
“They decided if I can survive a war, I can survive this,” she laughed.
Her wines are lovely and pure, which she attributes to the soil and climate. She likes the pinot noirs for their “rose petal nose, vibrant red fruit, raspberries, wild strawberries, orange peel and chalky tannins.”
Clones are very important to pinot noir. Morris favors the 943 clone, which produces small clusters she calls “super cute.” These concentrated clusters produce very intense flavors.
The Santa Barbara AVAs are terrific tourist destinations as well. We have traveled the winding roads many times, stopping at tasting rooms known and unknown. The town of Los Olivos plays host to many tasting rooms and the iconic Fess Parker Winery and Inn. Other beautiful tasting rooms are at Alma Rosa, Foley Estates, Melville and Sanford.
Morris calls 2021 a “perfect vintage.”
Here are 10 pinot noirs from Sta. Rita Hills that we liked. Alas, they are generally expensive from this AVA.
Alma Rosa Caracol Pinot Noir 2021 ($90). With grapes taken from a knoll top planted in 2015, this vineyard blend of clones and rootstocks shows off a broad array of raspberry and strawberry flavors with a touch of orange peel and mineral. Good acidity and balanced tannin make it a perfect quaff.
Alma Rosa Barrel Select Pinot Noir 2021 ($90). Using grapes from a vineyard 750 feet in elevation, this tightly structured wine has bing cherry, cranberry and spice notes with chalky tannins to make it a good complement to serious foods.
Foley Estates Barrel Select Pinot Noir 2021 ($80). This is a serious pinot noir with big tannins and bold dark cherry and plum flavors. Hints of pepper, spice and oak make it a well-rounded wine for current drinking alongside a steak or it can be aged for a few years.
Migration Peake Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 ($75). Bing cherry, raspberry and violet aromas are followed by concentrated red berry flavors with a dose of spice. Very opulent in texture.
Kosta-Browne Pinot Noir 2022 ($78). This well-respected producer makes some of the best – and most expensive – pinot noirs in Sta. Rita Hills. But this blend of several vineyards is a good introduction. Blackberry, pomegranate and strawberry notes with a dollop of spice.
Sanford La Rinconada Pinot Noir 2020 ($85). This venerable producer makes some of the best pinot noir in all of California. They have depth, concentration and gout de terroir. Many of them far exceed the price of the La Rinconada. This wine has generous raspberry and fennel aromas to lead off a broad spectrum of red fruit and spice.
Fess Parker Pinot Noir 2022 ($35). This is the most reasonably priced pinot noir from this region you’ll probably find. It’s simple and approachable with blueberry, cranberry and strawberry notes. Medium-bodied.
Sea Smoke Southing Pinot Noir 2021 ($95). A lot of care and attention goes into this concentrated and juicy pinot noir. Classic cherry notes with bright strawberry aromas and a thin thread of minerality to keep it interesting.
Sandhi Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir 2019 ($45). Another reasonably priced pinot noirs from Sta. Rita Hills, is medium bodied, very delicious and approachable with juicy black cherry flavors.
Rockhound Radian Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 ($90). Launched just last year, this producer is Reed and Megan Skupny, the second generation of Lang & Reed. From a very special vineyard, the pinot noir is a co-ferment of three Burgundian clones aged for 16 months in French oak. It is an exquisite wine with black cherry and plum flavors.
