Mountain Rhône Blends, Historic Finger Lakes Whites, and Effervescent Summer Sips

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

New York winery’s namesake, Dr. Konstantin Frank, endured a fascinating upbringing. He witnessed the birth of communism in his native Ukraine and World War I. Earning a doctorate in agriculture, he specialized in cold-resistant vinifera grapes and, after a circuitous route, ultimately emigrated to the U.S. in 1951.

Up until this time, grape growers believed that New York’s cold winters were too much for vinifera grapes. Dr. Frank, who had been growing vinifera grapes in very cold Ukraine, knew better. He subsequently convinced grape growers in the Finger Lakes region to convert from growing hybrid grapes to giving vinifera grapes a chance. He planted his own vineyard in the region exclusively to vinifera in 1961, releasing his first wine labeled Vinifera Wine Cellars. Today, the third and fourth generations of the Frank family own and operate the winery with their wines distributed in more than 30 states.

We recently tasted a trio of their current releases, and the following are our impressions.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Rosé Finger Lakes 2025 ($18). This is a well-priced, lively wine that excites the palate. Lovely fruit notes of watermelon, strawberry, and berries crafted by blending a variety of grape sources from around the Finger Lakes. It is made up of cabernet franc and blaufrankisch grapes.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Gruner Veltliner Finger Lakes 2024 ($22). Gruner Veltliner is a terrific match for summer cuisine.  All stainless steel and sourced from their Seneca Estate, this lively wine displays apple and citrus notes with a tongue-teasing acidity. Great with most casual summer foods.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Erste Gruner Veltliner Finger Lakes 2024 ($40). This estate gruner veltliner sees a bit of old oak, which produces a distinct roundness to the wine. Apple and yellow plum notes are on display. Good now, but this wine can age.

Chateau St. Michelle/ Dr. Loosen Eroica 2022 and 2024. This is arguably one of the best Rieslings produced in the U.S. A partnership since 1999 between Chateau Ste. Michelle and the renowned Dr. Loosen of Germany. We remember this Riesling as the first domestic Riesling that we found very appealing. Recently, we tasted two newer vintages side by side, and we were impressed by their high quality and vintage differentiation. They both retained a bit of sweetness and a distinct affinity for food, especially spicy foods. Try these Rieslings with Thai, Chinese, or Indian cuisine.

Eroica Riesling Columbia Valley 2022 ($18-$20) has a hint of petrol on the nose and palate, with classic pear and peach notes and a distinctly creamy finish. The Eroica Riesling Columbia Valley 2024 ($18-$20) has notes of ripe pear and apple with just a floral note. Drink this now for a fresher experience or age it for some complexity.

Learn How Mother Nature Gives Wine The Taste You Enjoy – Not Technology

Starfield Vineyards

We don’t often taste wines from California’s El Dorado County, so it was interesting to sample a number of wines from Starfield Vineyards.

Located east of Sacramento, the El Dorado AVA presents a challenge to growers because of its high elevation and complex topography. Vineyards range from 600 to 3,500 feet above sea level. The cool nights give grapes relief from midday sun. Thicker skins from this temperature swing often lead to bold wines.

Starfield’s wine program, focused on Rhône grape varietals, is led by Tom Sinton and his son Rob. The mountain-grown wines are influenced by forest conifers, which release aromatic oils that attract pollinators and add a forest garrigue note to the wine, called “Sierra spice.” The Ponderosa pine can release vanilla, butterscotch, pineapple, anise, and many herbal notes.

The Starfield labels are very creative: solargraphs or long-exposure photos taken with pinhole cameras over five days at a 2,400-foot elevation on the estate. The labels capture the sun’s arc as it passes by. The cameras were built by winemaker Rob Sinton.

Here are several of the wines we liked:

Starfield Vineyards Viognier 2024 ($36). Simple and delicate, this aromatic viognier is blended with a little roussanne and marsanne. White peach and citrus notes with a thread of minerality.

Starfield Vineyards Hope Rising 2024 ($36).  Our favorite white of the tasting, this is a blend of equal amounts of marsanne and roussanne, plus 10 percent viognier, the latter of which lifts the aromas. Tropical fruit, stone fruit, vanilla, herbs and slate.

Starfield Vineyards Grenache 2023 ($42). Strawberry and other red fruit flavors with a bit of white plum, vanilla and spice.

Starfield Vineyards The Miner’s Inch 2023 ($38). This is a collection of grenache, aglianico, tempranillo, petite sirah, mourvedre, cinsault and roussanne. Medium in body with black and red fruit character and layers of spice.

Summer champagne

Don’t wait for the next wedding to enjoy champagne, a treat that is often replaced by inexpensive plonk at these celebratory occasions. Pop a bottle for no reason other than to feel good. Here are some great French champagnes we recently tasted:

Billecart-Salmon Le Reserve Champagne NV ($69).  Always a reliable champagne for the price, this producer continues to make a luxurious signature cuvee. Apple and pear notes with a hint of spice. Unlike many champagnes, it is dominated by 43 percent pinot meunier with the balance made up of chardonnay and pinot noir. Exquisite.

De Saint-Gall Grand Cru Champagne Blanc de Blanc N/V ($50-60). Produced by a cooperative, this 100 percent chardonnay delivers for the price. Subtle citrus and yeasty notes are enveloped in a toasty aged shell that outperforms the asking price.

Champagne Telmont Reserve Brut ($74). Made from all three grape varieties, this classic wine has white-flower aromas and a range of fruit flavors, from apple to white peach.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillate Reserve Exclusive Rose ($60). Deep in color and dense, this rich champagne has effusive raspberry and blueberry notes. It’s a perfect wine to pair with fruit or salmon.

Dom Perignon Vintage 2017 ($250). This limited edition from the well-respected producer is a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. Citrus aromas with ripe red fruit flavors. Very smooth on the finish.

Wine picks

Wente Family Vineyards Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2024 ($45). New to Wente’s portfolio, this cool-climate pinot noir reveals plum and cherry flavors in a medium body. Simple but tasty with a hint of dried herbs.

Mendes & Symington Contacto Alvarinho 2025 ($22). This incredible collaboration between vinho verde pioneer Anselmo Mendes and the Symington Family Estates hails from northern Portugal. Alvarinho, genetically the same grape variety as Spain’s albariño, has nice mineral notes that complement a citrus core. Fresh acidity and a dash of grapefruit make this wine an excellent summer quaff.

Bodegas LAN Verdejo Rueda 2025 ($14). This is an insanely great value for anyone who would enjoy an alternative to Sauvignon Blanc. It has layers of citrus, white peach and grapefruit flavors with fresh acidity. A perfect sipper on a hot day that would do well with a charcuterie or fruit plate.