Join Us For A Tasting Of Spanish Wines

By TOM MARQUARDT And PATRICK DARR

Spain is a great source of high quality, classically made wines at terrific prices. We’ve written about Spanish wines on many occasions and admire the winemakers’ loyalty to traditions but also their adoption of modern, environmentally conscious techniques. There are two Spanish producers – Beronia and the vast portfolio of Gil Family Estates – that deserve your attention.

Beronia is a winemaker located in Rioja Alta and lays claim to recently opening the “most efficient and sustainable” winery in Europe. However, Beronia also clings to utilizing the indigenous grapes and aging practices of their forefathers while adopting new concepts to enhance quality. One example is a hybrid barrel aging program whereby the winery uses American oak staves in their barrels but caps the ends with French oak wood.

Beronia is owned by Spanish drinks conglomerate Gonzalez Byass better known for their production of sherry through their Tio Pepe and Pedro Domecq brands. Ownership by a large multinational company can have significant advantages, including worldwide distribution and marketing.

Today Beronia is sold in more than 80 countries and is widely available in the U.S.   We recently tasted a selection of Beronia’s current offerings and were impressed with their price and classic styling.

Spain may be an afterthought to some rosé enthusiasts. Although an ocean of excellent rosés flows from Provence every year, Spain should not be overlooked for its rosados. The Beronia Rosé Rioja 2022 ($13) uses the traditional name as opposed to other Spanish producers who use the more local “rosado.” Crafted from 50 percent each of grenache and tempranillo, this rosado delivers on a quality-price ratio. It is very refreshing and shows bright acidity and pure strawberry notes that should pair well with any summer fare.

The Beronia Crianza Rioja 2019 ($15-18) is a classically styled Rioja, projecting cherry notes with a hint of green herbs and a light vanilla note. It is 94 percent tempranillo with a bit of garnacha and mazuelo. It spends 12 months in Beronia’s French/American barrels. A great price makes this attractive for summer barbecues featuring simpler foods.

The Beronia Reserva Rioja 2018 ($25-30) is a definite step up in quality with 95 percent tempranillo grapes and the rest mazuelo and graciano. Aged in both French and American oak barrels for 18 months with another 18 months of bottle age, this elegant wine sports plum and berry notes with a hint of spice and a touch more oak than the crianza. Try this delicious red wine with a beef entrée.

Our favorite of the tasting was the Beronia Gran Reserva Rioja 2015 ($30-35). It’s amazing that this wine — produced 8 years ago, aged for 28 months in French oak barrels and with another 36 months of bottle aging — is available for this price.

The Gran Reserva, which is produced from 95 percent tempranillo grapes, is bigger, richer and more complex than its less esteemed siblings. Complex notes of cherry and berry with a hint of chocolate create a delicious drink that interestingly is less oaky than the crianza and reserve despite the extended French oak aging.

Gil Family Estates

Gil Family Estates has been producing wine in several Spanish regions since 1916 and they continue to out-deliver their price point. Consumers would be wise to discover these wines:

La Atalaya del Camino Red Blend 2020 ($18). From a high plateau in Castilla-La Mancha, this wine is a blend of monastrell (known elsewhere as mourvedre) and garnacha tintorera (known elsewhere as alicante bouschet). It has a full body, excellent structure, floral aromas and ripe blackberry flavors with big tannins.

Atteca Old Vine Garnacha ($18).  We’ve been enjoying this wine for years and are never disappointed. Low-yielding vines produce concentrated cherry and plum flavors with hints of mint and soft tannins.

Juan Gil Silver Organic Monastrell ($18). From the Jumilla region along the Mediterranean Coast, this monastrell has juicy red berry flavors and long finish.

Tridente Tempranillo 2019 ($18).  From vines as old as 100 years, this wine from the Castilla y Leon region has forward, juicy black fruit flavors with a nice dose of chocolate. Lots of tannin gives this wine body.

Can Blau 2020 ($18).  We have enjoyed this wine for decades.  A blend of carinena, syrah and garnacha, it goes with just about anything on the grill from burgers to pizza.  Delicious sweet fruit with good spice.

Rosario Vera Rioja Tempranillo ($18). Big flavors of blackberries and plums with a hint of cedar.

Wine picks

C.K. Mondavi Family Select California Chardonnay 2019 ($16).  With several of the fourth-generation family members steering this historic property, the products are always solid but not necessarily from specific vineyards. They draw grapes for this wine from Lodi, Yolo and Napa Valley. A good value and very approachable, it is juicy with ripe plum and cherry notes with a hint of vanilla.

Chappellet Grower Collection Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 ($55).  This luxurious chardonnay from Carneros is everything you want: delicious, complex, refined and balanced.  Peach, tangerine and citrus flavors with a good dose of spice.

Markham Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($20).  We have enjoyed this producer’s sauvignon blancs for decades. Always balanced with the right amount of crisp acidity, they are a perfect foil to most summer foods. Citrus and grapefruit notes

DAOU Paso Robles Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($20). Grapefruit, citrus and lemon grass notes with a bit of flintstone. It’s all sauvignon blanc.