An Updated Tasting Of Paso Robles Area Wines

By TOM MARQUARDT And PATRICK DARR

We have written about wines from the Paso Robles area several times because it continues to strengthen in quality.  Over the last couple of months we have tasted red wines made from Bordeaux varietals and those made from Rhone varietals. Although the cabernet sauvignons from this vast region have gained steam, we still feel the best quality wines from Paso Robles are made from syrah, grenache and mourvedre grapes.

The most notable exception is DAOU whose vineyards in the Adelaida district are up 2,000 feet and closer to ocean breezes. The combination cools the grapes at night so that they retain their acidity. Many of the cabernets we tasted more inland lack the acidity that gives a wine its backbone.

Three worthy wines from DAOU are the 2020 Estate Micho ($85), the 2020 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($95) and the colossal Soul of the Lion ($150).  Micho, a tribute to proprietors Daniel and Georges Daou, is a blend of cabernet and merlot. Soul of the Lion, now in its 10^th year, is a powerful, ageworthy blend of specially selected cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot. It is named in honor of their father.

Other decent cabernet sauvignon blends are made by Austin Hope, JUSTIN and J. Lohr. The 2020 JUSTIN Isosceles ($85) is a complex, full-bodied, fruit-driven wine worthy of its stature year after year.

Although J. Lohr is a good producer who makes more value-priced wines, the version that puts it on par with the other full-bodied cabernets from Paso Robles is the 2019 J. Lohr Signature Cabernet Sauvignon ($100). Using grapes from the producer’s Beck Vineyard, this wine makes a solid performance with dark fruit flavors and hints of cocoa and caramel.  It lands softly on the palate and can be easily enjoyed now, but it also has a promising future in the cellar.

Those in search of better values should try the 2020 JUSTIN cabernet sauvignon

($30) or the J. Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon ($35). Firestone Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a good value at $16.

As for those grenache, syrah and mourvedre wines, we find home runs everywhere in Paso Robles.

Our new favorites are coming from Fulldraw and Booker in the Willow Creek district.  Fulldraw’s winemaker Connor McMahon once worked at Booker before launching his own label from an adjacent property in 2016. McMahon’s 2019 Chopping Block blend of syrah, mourvedre and grenache is rich and powerful, exuding fresh red fruit and layered hints of tobacco, herbs and minerality.

The Fulldraw Hard Point ($95), made entirely of grenache, is equally dramatic with strawberry aromas and dark fruit flavors.

Lessegue

We recently tasted the 2017 and 2018 St Emilion’s Chateau Lassegue Grand Cru ($60) side by side to evaluate where they are today. In general, the 2018 vintage is recognized as a bit superior to the 2017 and our tasting validated this view. The Ch. Lassegue 2017 we found to present as a bit leaner and offered more red cherry notes that still drank well. The 2018 was a bigger riper version with more ripe cherry and plum notes in a very elegant potentially long-lasting vintage. Both wines are crafted from a similar blend of merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon which varies from vintage to vintage.

Aperol spritz

While recently traveling in Europe, we noticed that Aperol spritz is as common as rose at the lunch table.  Even on the cruise, Americans were ordering it by the poolside or the breakfast deck.

Aperol spritz is the perfect concoction for the summer because it is relatively low in alcohol and makes for a great aperitif to serve with olives, cheese, fruit and canapes.

Generally, it is 3 parts prosecco, 2 parts Aperol, and 1 part club soda. However, you can change the proportions to suit your liking.

Aperol is bitter, so reduce that portion if it’s too bitter for your liking and add more prosecco. If you want less alcohol, add more club soda.

Aperol comes from Calabria in southern Italy and is a blend of citrus, herbs and vanilla. It has a bitter orange taste and has only 11 percent alcohol.

Wine picks

Xanadu Margaret River Vinework Chardonnay 2021 ($27). From Australia, this chardonnay has a soft and full mouthfeel with peach and lemon zest flavors.

Markham Napa Valley Merlot 2020 ($29). Kimberlee Nichols, one of the first female winemakers in Napa Valley, leads an all-woman winemaking and viticultural team here.  We love the coffee aromas that leap from the glass and the ripe black cherry flavors that follow it.

Textbook Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($27). This reasonably priced cabernet sauvignon from the Pey family is a blend of grapes from several sub-AVAs in

Paso Robles. Big and juicy cherry and raspberry notes with a hint of spice and rosemary.

Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2021 ($45).  The producer sources his grapes for this wonderful wine from several vineyards. Generous cherry and tobacco aromas with boysenberry and raspberry flavors.

Talbott Sleep Hollow Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019 ($50).  When we were working, wearing a Talbott tie was a sign of success. Robb Talbott designed some incredible neckwear in California but turned to wine in 1982.  From te Santa Lucia Highlands region, these wines approximate the style found in Burgundy. Lots of finesse and deceiving lightness.  Blackberry flavors with a nice dose of spice.

Gran Moraine Yamill-Carlton Chardonnay 2019 ($50).  This solid chardonnay from the eastern foothills of Oregon’s Coastal Range is crisp and deceivingly light. Pear and melon notes with fresh acidity.

Tribute Cabernet Sauvignon- 2021 ($20). Drawing grapes from Paso Robles, San Benito County and the producer’s San Lucas Vineyard, this wine has bright red fruit character with soft tannins and a hit of dark chocolate.