Wines To Cool Down With

By Tom Marquardt And Patrick Darr

A hot day on the deck commands something cold. Water or tea are the obvious choices, but as the sun sets and you’re admiring the view over a grilled dinner, a glass of wine is calling. For many of you, a chilled glass of white wine cools the palate the best, whether your choice be chardonnay, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, or something else. Rosé is another excellent choice for something to sip away the day. But what is a red wine drinker to do? Suck it up and switch to a beverage he doesn’t like? Maybe there is a compromise.

There are red wines that can be easily chilled, but not every red wine performs well at 60 degrees or less. Refrigerator temperatures (35-40 degrees) can close down the nuances of serious wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. They will cool you off, but they also will freeze out the tannin, acidity, and subtle nuances.

The red wines ideal to chill have low tannins and big acidity with a simple, fresh fruit character. The most obvious choice is Beaujolais, a French wine made from Gamay Beaujolais grapes. There are many levels of this simple, fruity wine, ranging from Beaujolais villages to cru beaujolais named after one of 10 villages. We prefer the latter group alongside barbecue, especially hamburgers. Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais is easy to find but for something special, try the vibrant 2023 Chateau de La Chaize Brouilly ($28), a cru with red fruit flavor and a dash of spice.

Light-bodied grenache also can be chilled, but if you want something different, try frappato, a red wine from Sicily. Sometimes blended with nero d’avola, it is similar to Sangiovese. Very fruity and simple. Look for the producer Donnafugata.

Making a comeback from a blemished history is Lambrusco, a sparkling Italian concoction that is often used as a base for many sangrias. It is a perfect choice for people who like a touch of sweetness to their wine.  Loaded with black cherry and raspberry flavors, it can be enjoyed by itself, but it does well with spicy foods.

We recently tasted some Portuguese wines from Herdade do Rocim that were low in alcohol and tannin – perfect for a slight chill. Try the Herdade do Rocim Mariana Red, for instance, a buy at $25.

Another red we chilled was Badia a Coltibuono’s Chill Ya Jolo.  Made from the native Tuscan grape ciliegiolo, it has a Beaujolais-like profile. Bright, simple red fruit character. A refrigerator chill is too much, so let it sit for 30 minutes after taking it out of the refrigerator.

And we insist you try the 2024 Lucy Gamay Noir ($30) from Monterey County. Using the same grape that goes into Beaujolais, the winemaker has crafted a fruit-forward, vibrant wine with raspberry flavors a dollop of spice. It tastes so much better with a slight chill.

The 2020 J Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($47) is an elegant wine with ripe dark fruit character that, when chilled, marries well with appetizers, fowl, or meat.

Enjoy your summer with white wine – or red.

Paso Robles

The Paso Robles region continues to turn out a lot of good wine, particularly red blends.  We recently tried several that will appeal to a variety of consumers. The inexpensive versions below may not be to the liking of serious red wine drinkers, but their approachability matches their price. Expect to find sweet fruit character.

Textbook Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($27). This is one of the best cabernets on the market for the price. Some petite sirah, merlot and syrah go into this blend to give it a round, rich character. Ripe red cherry flavors with soft tannins. Textbook also makes a reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley grapes that is more complex and Bordeaux-like.

Here By Chance Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($25). This new launch embodies the sense of adventure that comes with discovering new wines. It is a great rendition of what we have grown to expect from Paso Robles.  Ripe red fruit flavors with a velvety texture and soft landing. Fine tannins make it a good match to grilled meats.

Bootleg Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 ($25). This inaugural edition of Cabernet Sauvignon is well worth its price. Forward dark berry flavors with hints of coffee and cocoa. This would be ideal with juicy burgers, ribs and pizza.

Highlands 41 Black Granite 2022 ($15). Lots of forward dark fruit in this unconventional blend of cabernet sauvignon (45 percent), primitivo, petite sirah, malbec and pinot noir.

San Simeon Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($27). Cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot combine forces to offer a ripe plum and blackberry wine with doses of oak and vanilla.

Opaque Darkness 2022 ($30). Zinfandel, primitivo, petite sirah and petit verdot team up to create a wine with ripe, jammy dark fruit with a good dose of chocolate.

Juggernaut Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($20). Here’s a good deal in the Cabernet Sauvignon category. Drawing grapes from the broad California appellation, the wine has a soft mouthfeel with ripe black fruit flavors and a dose of vanilla.

San Simeon Stormwatch 2022 ($70). This serious wine is a more typical lend of cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot, cabernet franc, merlot and malbec. Good but soft tannins with ripe plum and blackberry flavors.

Wine picks

Baldacci Family Vineyards Carneros Chardonnay 2023 ($50). Citrus and apple notes highlight this round and rich Chardonnay. Nice touch of vanilla and toasted oak.

Patz & Hall Bootlegger’s Hill Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($70).  Ste. Michelle bought this estate in 2016 but decided to sell it last year when it scaled back its Washington portfolio. Co-founder James Hall was more than happy to get it back. We’re happy too. We thought the wine became too commercialized. We loved the old wines made by its founders. This single-vineyard chardonnay is very special.  It has citrus, clove, pineapple and green apple notes with a dash of minerality and richness.

Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Montevergine Taursai 2016 ($76).  This is an incredible wine made from the noble and ancient grape variety Aglianico. Common to the Campania region in southern Italy, Taursai is one of the most respected but often forgotten wines in all of Italy.  It has complex and intense blackberry and plum notes with hints of spice and licorice. Aged 18 months in new French barriques and 24 months in bottle, it is full-bodied and destined for the cellar.