By TOM MARQUARDT And PATRICK DARR
New Zealand’s recognition as a wine-producing country has come a long way since its debut in U.S. wine markets in the mid-1980s. The commercial wine industry in New Zealand had just yielded its first international success with the Cloudy Bay Winery’s sauvignon blanc from Marlborough.
Since then, New Zealand has become synonymous with sauvignon blanc, and Marlborough is New Zealand’s dominant wine area with about 70 percent of the country’s total wine output.
A good deal of New Zealand’s wine exports are sauvignon blanc table wines that are available at reasonable costs in the mid-teens. This price point — and an overall drinkability — has made these wines winners for consumers.
Citrus and grapefruit notes as well as herbal, grassy nuances are sauvignon blancs’ calling card here. Easy-to-find brands such as Kim Crawford, Brancott and Oyster Bay are household names among imbibers in the U.S.
Most of the many wines that we have reviewed are the more moderately priced Sauvignon blancs. However, recently we tasted two current releases from Cloudy Bay that showed the new depths of New Zealand wines.
The 2023 Cloudy Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($35) is priced a bit more than many New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, but we believe it delivered the goods. A very well-balanced wine, it featured a complex mélange of lemon and lime notes, bright refreshing acidity along with grass and melon elements.
Pinot noir is making a name for itself in the cooler climate of New Zealand and we have been impressed with several efforts that we have tasted. The 2021 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir Marlborough ($43) is a wow. This beauty displays fresh, rich blackberry and cherry notes with a hint of oak. If you like some of the pinot noirs from California, then try this one.
Villa Maria Winery is another iconic New Zealand producer of Marlborough sauvignon blanc. Most of its production sells in the mid-teen range and offers good value. In addition, Villa Maria has produced a super-premium sauvignon blanc showcasing its touch with growing the grape in a non-traditional way.
The 2021 Villa Maria Woven Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($50) was aged in 1-to-2-year-old French barrels of different types and further aged on its lees in stainless steel for 6 more months. Most New Zealand sauvignon blanc is only aged in stainless steel before release. The result of this special attention is a very complex and enjoyable wine with an herbal grassy nose followed by mineral, citrus and a hint of passion fruit in the mouth. The finish is creamy.
We also enjoyed Juggernaut from Marlborough. The 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – the producer’s first — has the classic bright acidity and grass aromas with grapefruit and lemon flavors. From the Bogle Family Wine Collection, it’s a great value at $16.
Alcohol ranked by state
The National Institute on Alcohol Abuse and Alcoholism has ranked each state according to the amount of wine consumed. We suppose it’s an effort to show which states have the worst drinking problem, but those who live there may see it as a badge of honor.
California, a state with the most vineyards and tasting rooms, consumed the most wine. In second place was Florida with Texas close behind. These are popular states, so it is not surprising to see them atop the heap. South Dakota, West Virginia and Wyoming held down the basement. Maryland was about in the middle of the pack.
When measured per capita, Washington, D.C., where lawmakers are literally wined and dined, consumed the most wine. Delaware was second. Maybe there is nothing else to do there.
Wine picks
Tapestry Paso Robles Red Blend 2021 ($25). New to the Beaulieu Vineyard portfolio, this blend of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and petit syrah is classic Paso Robles. Ripe and rich dark fruit flavors with distinctive mocha and chocolate notes with a dash of spice and cassis. Full in the mouth and easy to drink. The label reflects the flora and fauna common to the region.
Frank Family Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($60). Some merlot, petit verdot and cabernet franc go into this well-structured and complex wine. Broad aromas of floral, expresso, cedar and tobacco accent the rich dark berry fruit flavors.
Eleven Eleven Pinot Noir Sonoma County Russian River Valley Bacigalupi Vineyard 2019 ($65). Expensive but awesome, put this in the special occasion category. Cherry and plum notes with vanilla and spice notes in a beautiful fruity mélange.
Conde Valdemar Rioja Crianza 2018 ($20). This is an everyday pop and pour for a weekday meal. Berry fruit notes and no overbearing oak keep this wine clean and refreshing.
Duca di Salaparuta Duca Enrico Nero D’Avola Sicilia DOC 2018 ($50-60). One of the best red wines that we have recently tasted from Sicily. The wine presents a bold expression of berry and plum notes with a hint of vanilla and sweet oak.
Republished with permission
Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly wine column for more than 30 years. Additional Wine reviews on MoreAboutWine
All photos are randomly selected and do not indicate any preferred wine. Listed prices are subject to change and do not include tax or shipping.
You can send questions to Tom Marquardt marq1948@gmail.com
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