Time To Try Some Cabernet Franc, Yes, Cabernet Franc

By Tom Marquardt And Patrick Darr

Many consumers are not as familiar with cabernet franc as they are with cabernet sauvignon, even though it is widely grown in the world. Alas, the grape plays a supporting role in most of the blends made in Bordeaux – with a notable exception made by Chateau Chevel Blanc, a first-growth Bordeaux that commits about two-thirds of its plantings to the grape variety.

First established in the Libournais region of southwest France in the 17^th century, it is thought to be a parent to cabernet sauvignon, merlot and carmenere. It is predominant in Loire Valley’s Chinon region and has grown in popularity in just about every country, as far-reaching as Hungary and South Africa.  It is even popular in Canada’s famous ice wine.

Although cabernet sauvignon’s ancestry has been traced through DNA analysis to cabernet franc, there is a world of difference between the two grapes. Cabernet franc has softer tannins and is more charming than its often-bolder cousin.  Considered more charming, it is generally easier to drink on release and pairs well with a variety of food. Aromas are perfumy with a remarkable pepper and graphite note and raspberry, and blackberry flavors. Although many French versions have a green pepper quality, it is not our favorite attribute. Given all of this, you can see why it plays a supporting role in Bordeaux.

Nonetheless, we have recently tasted a number of cabernet francs that show how this grape variety can make for a delicious wine in the right hands.  The grape performs better with low yields, and unfortunately, that drives prices in California.

Chappellet Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2021 ($120). Merlot, malbec, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot go into this blend to give it a Bordeaux feel but with more heft than we expect from cabernet franc. Generous blueberry and coffee aromas are followed by blackberry and blueberry flavors with a dash of anise.  Well-balanced and long in the finish.

La Jota Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Franc 2019 ($125). Sourcing grapes from one of the oldest cabernet franc vineyards in Napa Valley, this wine has durability.  Intense raspberry, dried sage and black pepper aromas and followed by dense dark fruit flavors and firm tannins.

Acumen PEAK Cabernet Franc 2021 ($125).  This is the producer’s inaugural release of cabernet franc and, wow, what a debut. Winemaker Philip Titus made a cabernet franc for Chappellet as well, so he’s no stranger to the grape variety. He said about the Acumen, “I’ve approached this wine like a classic Right Bank Bordeaux blend, with the virtues of cabernet franc at its core. That means a lot of spicy red fruit, layers of cigar box, leather and fragrant black tea, and supple tannins.” Merlot and cabernet sauvignon joins the cabernet franc in this bold wine.

CV Cabernet Franc Reserve 2019 ($80). CV stands for Continental Vineyards, whose owner sold fruit for 50 years to several Paso Roble producers. Now with its own label, it has a number of top-shelf, small-production wines like this interesting cabernet franc. It has classic blue fruit notes, a good dollop of spice and fine tannins. Aged in new oak for 23 months.

Ehlers Estate Cabernet Franc 2021 ($80). If the label doesn’t hook you, the wine will. We loved the freshness of this St. Helena wine which is pure cabernet franc. Barrel-aged and complex, it sports a violet and blackberry aroma and ripe blackberry flavors with a hint of oak.

Van Loggerenberg Wines Breton 2022 ($23). This South African take on the variety shows off more plum and blackberry flavors with varietal dried herbs.

Catherine & Pierre Breton Chinon 2022 ($37).  Using only cabernet franc in this wine from one of the pioneer regions for the grape variety, this couple makes a consistently beautifully textured, charming wine with blueberry and raspberry flavors.

Charles Joguet Chinon “Cuvee Terroir” 2020 ($31).  This producer makes more expensive cabernet francs, but this approachable blend is a great entry point with its lighter style. Strawberry, and raspberry notes burst from the glass.

Marcelo Pelleriti Cabernet Franc Valle de Uco Signature 2020 ($20). Some of the best values in all wine are coming from Argentina and this is a good example. Perfumy and blackberry aromas with jammy strawberry flavors and a hint of licorice.

Trouble

Gerard Bertrand may be asking for trouble with his new series of daring wines from southern France. Called “Trouble XP,” the 2023 white, pink and red wines are organic and naturally cloudy.  While some consumers have objected to wines that are slightly cloudy, these wines are definitely cloudy – a result of eliminating the filtering that leaves suspended particles in the wine. Filtering often strips the wine of flavors.

The white is a blend of chardonnay, grenache blanc and viognier. The rosé is a blend of syrah and grenache noir. The red is a mix of grenache noir and syrah.  All have a freshness to them, but we liked the rosé the best.

These wines sell for $25.

Wine picks

Vina Cobos Hobbs Estate Agrelo Malbec 2020 ($100).  Paul Hobbs launched Vina Cobos in Argentina in 1998, relatively early for malbec’s ascension in the United States. He found one of the top sites in the Mendoza and after 25 years continues to set a benchmark for quality. Agrelo is a sub-region of Lujan de Cuyo.  This wine has a floral bouquet and dense, concentrated dark berry flavors bursting under a cloak of tannins.

Qunita e Melgaco QM Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2023 ($19). This Portuguese wine is very unusual and delightful. Crisp acidity and tropical fruit flavors. It is a great wine to sip on the patio in the waning days of summer.

La Rioja Alta Vina Alberdi Reserva 2019 ($20).  We bought several bottles of this tempranillo.  Fruit-forward with black cherry notes and easy tannins, it is a wine to drink with barbecued foods or just by itself.