The Warm Weather Is For Tasting California Rosé

By TOM MARQUARDT And PATRICK DARR

Rosé has been around for a long time, but for U.S. consumers it got off to a rocky start. For centuries, the French have been making exquisite and bone-dry rosé in southern France while American consumers were cutting their teeth – coating their teeth – on a sugary concoction that abused the name rosé. Even though many of these French

producers make only rosé, their product wasn’t as available as Sutter Home’s infamous and prolific white zinfandel. It took years to undo the damage caused by those sweet concoctions and once that happened, sales of dry rosé took off. And, when they did, producers here and abroad added rosé to their vast portfolios just to stay in the game.

Sales accelerated through the COVID pandemic when the phrase “rosé all day” took on a new life with people cooped up indoors. Now, however, it appears rosé sales – like all wine sales – have tapered off. It’s not as if consumers have grown tired of rosé in particular, it’s just that drinking massive quantities of this fun drink doesn’t have the same appeal for some folks.

For us, a glass of rosé is a favorite in warm weather.  The color sets a fun tone to a party and its crisp acidity and chill offset the effects of warm afternoons on the boat, patio or beach. Furthermore, there are few wines as versatile as rosé with food.  Because the fare turns lighter in the summer, you can pair it with a cold vegetable tray, cheese, grilled chicken, most seafood dishes and dips.

If you’re looking for something special from France, we recommend the 2023 Forever Young Cotes de Provence Rosé ($26). If the name doesn’t pull you in, the flavors will. This tasty wine, packaged in perhaps the most attractive rosé bottle on the market, leans on cinsault. Added to the blend is grenache and syrah to give the wine layers of bright red fruit and citrus, followed by a hint of minerality. Refreshing and lively on the palate.

France has been making rosé the longest, but Spain has been making rosado for a long time with the local grapes of tempranillo, garnacha, mazuelo and graciano. Italian producers rely on aglianico, montepulciano, negromara and sangiovese.

A few weeks ago we focused exclusively on rosés from Southern France. This week, we look at California and other regions.

Most California producers follow the French in using grenache, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault, but we have tasted many rosés made from pinot noir and even cabernet sauvignon grapes.

While the grapes vary, the vinification process is much the same. The grapes are pressed quickly and shortly to reduce contact between the juice of the skins. This keeps the color light, the acidity sharp, and the flavors fresh.  The wines are usually simple, but producers such as those in Tavel add complexity by cold-soaking the grapes for at least 12 hours.

There is a certain sameness to rosé because terroir doesn’t play as much of a role as it does in, say, the production of cabernet sauvignon.  The idea is to keep the wine simple, inexpensive and quaffable.

As the temperatures soar, here’s a parade of tasty rosés to keep you cool:

Three Sticks Castenada Sonoma Coast Rosé 2023 ($45).  This may be the best rosé that we have tasted from the United States this year. Beautiful watermelon color lays the groundwork for a delightfully fresh and fruity quaff. Named after the producer’s tasting room – one of the few remaining Mexican-era residences in downtown Sonoma – the rosé comes in a whiskey-like bottle that is similar to relics discovered on the property. Strawberry compote, mano and citrus notes make for a broadly flavored rosé made from Rhone varietals.

Decoy California Rosé 2022 ($20). This blend of syrah, carignan, vermentino and grenache makes for an interesting assembly of fresh summer fruit with a dash of lemon.

Avaline Rosé ($24). Founded by Cameron Diaz and Katherine Power, this vegan-friendly wine draws grapes from southern France. Amongst the mix is grenache, cinsault, syrah and the unusual caladoc. It is simple and light with melon and citrus notes.

CVNE Cune Rosado 2022 ($15). Made entirely from tempranillo grapes, this Spanish rosé has ripe and juicy strawberry flavors with a twist of orange and a touch of sweetness.

Hogwash California Rosé 2023 ($18). Effusive grapefruit aromas are followed by orange and stone fruit flavors.

Frank Family Leslie Rosé of Pinot Noir 2023 ($50).  Nothing from this venerable producer is average. Even this rosé seems to have more body and complexity than your average pink wine. Lots of red fruit character with a hint of citrus and balanced acidity. Very delicious.

Dutcher Crossing Winemakers’ Cellar Rosé of Grenache 2022 ($39). From Dry Creek Valley, this luxurious rosé has peach and apricot aromas followed by cherry and citrus flavors.

Presqu’ile Santa Maria Valley Rosé 2023 ($32).  Made from pinot noir grapes, this excellent rosé has big strawberry notes.

Low alcohol wines

Wines with reduced alcohol levels are gaining attraction as consumers become more concerned about the health effects from alcohol consumption.  We recently tasted Giesen wines from New Zealand and, although they don’t appeal to us, they have consumer appeal for those who want to continue drinking wine but in moderation.

The alcohol is reduced to 6 percent through a traditional spinning cone technology.

Giesen Pure Light Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($15) has half as much alcohol and 45 percent fewer calories – only 62 calories per 5-oz. serving.  It has bold tropical fruit notes.

Giesen also makes a traditional sauvignon blanc at $17 with 12 percent alcohol (still less than most sauvignon blancs) and a non-alcohol version at $16.

Wine picks

MacRostie Nightwing Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 ($58). This delightful and complex chardonnay from Petaluma Gap is its third vintage and from an area that appeals to winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen. It has a lot of spirit and is quite different than the many chardonnays we have tasted this year. Stone fruit and citrus notes with a hint of pine.

Danaus Red Wine Catalunya 2022 ($13).  We enjoyed this quaffable blend of tempranillo, garnacha and cabernet sauvignon.  Simple, soft on the palate with ripe cherry and plum notes.  Quite a deal.