By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR
Wine history is ladened with invention. Specialized harvesting equipment, optical grape sorting machines, bottling lines and temperature-controlled fermentation tanks have made the winemaking process more efficient. But do they make wine better?
The process of making good wine does not change with technology. You need healthy soil to produce healthy grapes. Healthy grapes make good wine. You can manipulate grape juice with interventions, such as malolactic fermentation, punch downs, stirring the lees and more. But no matter what you do, only good grapes make good wine. It is as simple as that.
Roman winemakers did not have any technology at their disposal thousands of years ago. They picked the grapes and put them in clay vessels, called amphoras, to ferment. The wine probably wasn’t as good as it is today, but it was a hit at toga parties. But the old vessels, as it turns out, have validity even in a modern world.
Many winemakers, particularly in Georgia and Portugal, have abandoned stainless-steel fermentation tanks to produce wine in the same clay amphoras used by the Romans. And the result has been spectacular for many grape varietals.
Leading the return to traditional winemaking is Pedro Ribeiro, head winemaker at Herdade do Rocim in Portugal’s Alentejo region. He uses basket presses to gently press fermented grapes, crushes the grapes by foot, uses ancient grape varietals long abandoned, avoids artificial pesticides and fertilizers and ferments his grapes in clay talhas – the Portuguese version of amphoras. Some of his small talhas are 200 years old. Although these clay vessels aren’t used exclusively, they play an important role in making these delicious wines.
We recently caught up with Ribeiro in a virtual tasting of several of his wines. He has been making wine for Rocim in the Vidigueira sub-region since 2013; his wife, Catarina, is vineyard manager of more than 170 acres of grapes. Although the vineyards are 70 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, the offshore winds bring cooler temperatures and some humidity.
Ribeiro is a firm believer of amphoras even though they used for less than a percent of the Alentejo region’s wine.
The process of making wine in clay vessels is rather simple. The grapes are destemmed and then added with their skins to the amphora. Some stems are returned to the must. The skins and stems that float to the top are punched down twice a day. Some wines go into oak barrels, but others are returned to the to the talhas and topped with a coat of olive oil to prevent unwanted oxidation. The wine ages for up to a year before it is bottled.
The talhas are traditionally opened in the region on St. Martin’s Day, Nov. 11. Ribeiro said he follows the tradition but removes some of the skins before then. He doesn’t add yeast, which makes the process often unpredictable. But the result is a very aromatic wine, often low in alcohol, elegant and with good acidity.
These chillable wines, two of which are made in talhas, are very unique and fun to taste in summer temperatures or alongside grilled foods. You won’t find harsh tannins, but you will find simple, fresh fruit flavors. Look at these values!
Herdade do Rocim Mariana White Vinho Regional Alentejano 2024 ($18). This blend of antao vaz, arinto and alvarinho grapes has fresh tropical fruit notes and a thread of minerality. Fermentation takes place in small stainless-steel tanks and concrete vats. “Alentejano” is a name reserved for regional wines.
Herdade do Rocim Mariana Red Vinho Regional Alentejano 2023 ($18). The country’s most widely planted grape touriga nacional is joined by aragonez (tempranillo), alicante bouschet and trincadeira to make a delicious wine with red berry fruit notes and round tannins from its 6 months in French oak barrels.
Herdade do Rocim Amphora White 2024 ($25). Unusual, ancient grapes such as perrum, rabo de ovelha and manteudo are blended with the more traditional antao vaz varietal. It is a field blend that Ribeiro calls “crazy.” Only 11.5 percent alcohol makes it an easy quaffer. Fresh grapefruit notes with a dash of smoke and spice.
Herdade do Rocim Amphora Red Alentejo DOC Red 2024 ($25). The blend is composed of moreto, tinta grossa, trincadeira and aragonez grape varietals. Good acidity with black cherry and plum notes.
New York rosé
Most wine drinkers associate rosé with Southern France and its pink, strawberry flavors. Others may reference California where bolder rosés display watermelon, berry notes. Both of these regions certainly deserve the praise and accolades that they earn each year.
So, we were curious as we recently happened upon a trio of rosés from New York State. We were familiar with the Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery because we have tasted their wines many times.
Dr. Konstantin frank produces their rosés by pressing the freshly harvested grapes and allowing the grape skins to color the must. Skin contact time varies but all three rosés each had a minimum of three hours to attain the desired hue.
Following are our impressions:
Dr Konstantin Frank Dry Rosé Finger Lakes 2024 ($17). The wine displayed a pinkish orange tint with a delightful fruity nose and bright strawberry and cherry flavors and a style we have enjoyed in the past. Drink while fresh. The blend is mostly saperavi, chardonnay and pinot noir along with four other grapes.
Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Rosé of Pinot Noir Finger Lakes 2024 ($18). This rosé presented a light pink color with strawberry and cherry flavors. A bit richer and fuller than the previous rosé. It is made entirely from pinot noir.
Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Rosé of Saperavi 2024 ($24). This grape is originally believed to have originated in the country of Georgia. The darkest of the three rosés we tasted, the saperavi grape is unusual due to its pigmented pulp and skin. The wine presented a dark pink color as well as berry notes and a hint of white pepper. Made entirely from saperavi.
Wine picks
Lucia by Pisoni Chardonnay Estate Cuvee 2023 ($50). Jeff Pisoni is doing marvelous work with pinot noir and chardonnay. This estate cuvee is just the tip of his talents. Using grapes from the estate’s Soberanes and Pisoni vineyards, he has crafted a well-balanced wine that exceeds its price in quality. Pear and citrus notes with a dash of vanilla and a kiss of oak. Pisoni also makes an exquisite Soberanes Vineyard Chardonnay ($55) that shows off juicy peach notes and stronger oak notes.
Bouchaine Estate Chardonnay Napa Valley 2023 ($40). The tanginess and zest of this chardonnay makes it special. Apple, lime and melon notes.
Kostsa Browne One-Sixteen Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2022 ($115). With a luxurious, hedonistic texture, this rich chardonnay sports pear and apple notes with a dash of spice and bright acidity.
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