Elegance and Earth: Clos Du Val’s Bordeaux Grace Meets Left Coast’s Sustainable Spirit

By Tom Marquardt And Patrick Darr

The memory of our first encounter with Napa Valley’s Clos Du Val wines remains vivid. During the 1990s, we attended a tasting hosted by Bernard Portet, who crafted the winery’s offerings from the early 1970s until he retired in 2010. At the time, California’s wine scene favored bold statements: 100 percent cabernet sauvignon, heavy extraction, and liberal oak aging dominated the wines; zinfandels flaunted intense fruit and alcohol percentages climbing into the high teens.

By contrast, that evening’s Clos Du Val selections showed restraint—medium-bodied, balanced, and understated, echoing Bordeaux’s approach rather than California’s exuberance. This Bordeaux connection made perfect sense; Portet’s father had managed Chateau Lafite Rothschild, where Bernard spent his childhood.

As the tasting concluded, Portet offered us a bottle of merlot with advice: “Wait 12 years.” We did, and we were rewarded magnificently. That initially shy wine had transformed into something extraordinary—complex, harmonious, and utterly captivating.

In the legendary 1976 Judgment of Paris, Clos Du Val earned a respectable posting of 8 out of 10. However, it was placed behind French icons like Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Haut Brion, as well as the American champion, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. However, at a follow-up event a decade later, Clos Du Val claimed the top position—seemingly validating Portet’s philosophy of patience.

Recently, we had the opportunity to sample Clos Du Val’s current releases. In 2021, Carmel Greenberg, formerly assistant winemaker at Dominus, took the helm. The winery has renewed its commitment to Bordeaux varietals while intensifying its focus on quality. Below are our impressions of the wines we tasted.

Clos Du Val Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2024 ($55). This is a very lively sauvignon blanc presenting an herbal, grassy nose with citrusy lemon notes and exciting acidity. A perfect match for many seafoods.

Clos Du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2022 ($60). A distinctive European bent in this wine. Cherry and cassis elements with soft tannins as well as a smooth, mouth-filling experience. A mild oak element. Hold this wine for at least 5-7 years to experience its potential.

Clos Du Val Yettalil Napa Valley Stags Leap District 2022 ($200). This red blend is Clos Du Val’s effort to return to the elite of Napa Valley. A blend of mostly cabernet sauvignon as well as the other four red Bordeaux varietals the wine presents subdued note of berries and cassis as well as a hint of spice notes. Way too soon to drink we would hold this beauty for 10-15 years.

Left Coast Estate

Left Coast Estate wines have long been a favorite of ours. Nestled in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, their bottles consistently deliver expressive varietals that are both approachable and reasonably priced. During a recent visit, we sat down with Taylor Pfaff, the family CEO, who shared both his family’s journey and poured their latest vintages for us to sample.

The Pfaff family’s environmental stewardship became clear as Taylor described their two decades on the land. Of their sprawling 490-acre estate, only 160 acres are under vine, with the remainder dedicated to conservation. At the heart of this preservation effort stands a 70-acre ancient oak forest, where some trees have witnessed over four centuries of history. Through controlled burns, they’ve restored the forest floor’s natural balance, eliminating invasive undergrowth. Solar panels generate most of the estate’s power needs, while buzzing honeybee colonies provide both honey for retail and a special ingredient for select wine offerings. In their aptly named Truffle Hill vineyard, a three-acre section of hazelnut trees has been specially treated with truffle spores, in hopes of cultivating the prized fungi.

According to Taylor, the catastrophic Missoula floods that swept through 15,000 years ago at the Ice Age’s conclusion shaped the estate’s diverse landscape. These waters deposited rich soil in some areas while scouring it away in others, creating distinct terroirs across their vineyards. This geological drama, which may have influenced the earliest human migrations from Asia across the Bering land bridge, continues to influence their winemaking today.

Following are our tasting notes:

Left Coast Pinot Gris The Orchards Willamette Valley 2024 ($24). This is a delightful white wine full of apple and peach notes in a very complete package.

Left Coast White Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2023 ($25). Liquified white Rainer cherries came to mind while savoring this incredible white wine. A nice creamy note finished this wine with a subtle peach element.

Left Coast Pinot Noir Cali’s Cuvee Willamette Valley 2022 ($30). An easily accessible red wine with cherry and raspberry notes. A hint of oak and soft tannins.

Left Coast Pinot Noir Latitude 45 Willamette Valley 2021 ($50-55). Bright cherry and berry notes with a hint of earthiness.

Left Coast Pinot Noir Right Bank Willamette Valley 2021 ($50-55). From a vineyard where the Missoula floods scraped away most of the overlying soil. A bit reticent and shy this wine needs time to blossom but shows promise. Underlying ripe fruit.

Wine picks

Domaine St. Laurent Rogue Valley Oregon Pinot Noir 2023 ($18). This is about as inexpensive as you can find for a pinot noir.  It is simple and light-bodied but loaded with vibrant cherry and raspberry flavors with hints of clove and vanilla.

Gamble Estates Yountville Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ($60). Tom Gamble makes excellent sauvignon with body and texture. This one has a New Zealand personality with bright citrus aromas, grapefruit flavors and a hint of minerality.

Unsanctioned Oregon Pinot Gris 2024 ($20). A new product from Jackson Family Wines, this interesting wine has 10 percent sauvignon blanc—the maximum allowed in Oregon and hence the name. It’s a good value with opulent green apple and pear aromas followed by peach and melon flavors.