Do You Drink Merlot? Here Are Our Merlot Tasting Notes

By Tom Marquardt And Patrick Darr

Merlot is the world’s second most planted grape, yet its reputation among drinkers doesn’t reflect that status. Often dismissed as a mere softening agent for cabernet sauvignon’s harsh tannins, merlot quietly fills blends that consumers enjoy—without even realizing it’s there.

Still, a dedicated group of vintners has championed merlot through its highs and lows, forging a loyal following. The grape thrives in warm climates and adapts to a range of soils, making it increasingly attractive as growers around the globe seek heat-tolerant varieties. In Bordeaux—where growers are trialing new grapes to handle hotter summers—merlot outpaces cabernet sauvignon in plantings. On the Left Bank, it partners with cabernet sauvignon, on the Right Bank with cabernet franc, and since 2010, it has been the sole variety in the esteemed (and pricey) Petrus of Pomerol. It’s time to stop treating merlot as second best.

Part of merlot’s mixed reputation comes from its wildly varied flavor profiles. When grown in marginal regions, it can taste vegetal, weedy or excessively jammy (we’ve had merlots you could spread on toast). In Bordeaux, it often shows supple plum and herbal notes, with oak-driven hints of clove and chocolate. Napa Valley examples tend toward rich, lush extraction, bursting with forward black cherry and plum. We particularly favor the riper styles still balanced by lively acidity from Washington’s Columbia Valley.

One of merlot’s most vocal advocates there is David “Merf” Merfield, whose Northstar bottling and other Columbia Valley merlots have earned high praise. Approaching his 25th harvest, Merfield says, “I’m a huge fan of merlot. I wouldn’t be here if I didn’t love it.” He points to Columbia Valley’s ideal combination of irrigation water and warm days that let grapes fully ripen while retaining brightness. Even as other regions bake under rising temperatures, he believes the Columbia Valley remains in a “sweet spot.”

Although many shoppers expect merlot to be simple, we’ve discovered bottles of surprising body and complexity. Howell Mountain legend Chris Carpenter—whose hand steers Cardinale, La Jota, Mt. Brave and Lokoya—regularly produces merlots that earn rave reviews and premium price tags.

Merfield notes that his fruit can yield hefty tannins, but he tempers them by limiting skin contact, resulting in wines that are softer, approachable and ready to enjoy with minimal aging. That, he argues, is precisely what consumers seek.

For ready-to-drink, value-oriented merlots, look to Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills, Columbia Crest and Yakima Valley. We also like labels like Leonetti, Northstar and Seven Hills. In California, producers such as Duckhorn, Markham and St. Francis remain steadfast in their merlot programs despite market trends.

“Both in our vineyards and the winery, we have spent decades refining our approach to merlot,” says Markham winemaker Kimberlee Nicholls. “We’ve learned each site’s strengths and how best to express them. Merlot is our passion.”

When it comes to food pairings, match the wine’s weight and complexity: robust, tannic, higher-alcohol merlots stand up to beef, while the simpler, riper styles complement less formal fare such as ribs, burgers or pizza.

Here are a few merlots we have recently enjoyed:

Northstar Columbia Valley Merlot 2022 ($50). About 16 percent of cabernet goes into this sumptuous merlot. The 16 percent cabernet sauvignon in the blend boosts the body of this wine. The producer benefits from sourcing grapes from several diverse vineyards. Juicy blackberry and cherry flavors with hints of dark chocolate.

Markham Vineyards Little Cannon Vineyard Merlot 2021 ($72). We have enjoyed Markham’s range of merlots for decades. A consistent producer of the grape variety, it makes a steadfast, reliable version that ranges from its estate merlot to single-vineyard merlots, such as this one from a vineyard in the Oak Knolls AVA. It has effusive cherry, plum and forest floor notes, a medium body to make it food friendly and a long, complex finish.

Markham Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2022 ($32). Ripe plum and black cherry notes abound in this mostly estate-grown merlot. Long in the finish and soft on the palate.

Mayacamas Merlot Mt. Veeder Napa Valley 2022 ($75). Ripe plum and cherry notes in an oak frame. This is a keeper.

Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2022 ($60). Duckhorn was the first Napa Valley producer to champion merlot as a luxury stand-alone varietal. They are proving the point still today that in the right hands, merlot can produce a top-notch wine. Its Three Palm Vineyard version remains one of the best ever made year after year.

La Jota Vineyard Howell Mountain Merlot 2021 ($100). Mountain-grown merlot is the model for collectible and sturdy wine. The La Jota Vineyard sits on a volcanic plateau, which provides its cocoa character. Otherwise, expect blueberry and herb notes with a huge floral bouquet.

Columbia Crest Grand Estate Merlot 2022 ($12). A great value, this wine has juicy blackberry and chocolate notes. It is often found at $10 or less.

Columbia Crest H3 Horse Heaven Hills Merlot 2022 ($15). Ripe plum and black cherry flavors with a hint of chocolate.

Ancient Peaks Paso Robles Merlot 2022 ($25). Generous plum aromas give way to wild raspberry and cherry flavors.

J. Lohr Vineyards & Wine Los Osos Paso Robles Merlot 2022 ($15). A bit of cabernet franc and malbec add nice dimension to this wine with black cherry, plum and pomegranate flavors with a dash of spice.

Textbook Napa Valley Merlot 2022 ($29). An excellent value for merlot, this blend of four regions provides a broadly nuanced palate with generous floral aromas and ripe berry flavors with a dash of spice.

Gundlach-Bundschu Sonoma Valley Merlot 2022 ($48). Sourcing grapes from the estate’s Rhinefarm vineyard, the producer has a big, concentrated merlot with rhubarb and black cherry flavors.

Wine picks

McCollum Heritage 91 Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2021 ($50). This Chardonnay has a unique flavor profile that comes from the Chehalem Mountains. With a fresh and lively mouthfeel, it has pear flavors with a hint of almonds and balanced acidity.

Early Mountain Rise Virginia 2021 ($150). This Virginia producer has another blockbuster with this unconventional blend of merlot, petit verdot, tannat and cabernet franc. Lots of aromatics and effusive black fruit flavor is backed by serious tannin to give the wine heft.