By Tom Marquardt And Patrick Darr
Remember when New Year’s Eve felt like a milestone on our journey toward retirement? We’d toast to being one year closer to freedom—no more Monday morning alarms, just leisurely afternoons with wine glasses in hand. Now, deep into our retirement years, each December 31st marks another precious year of freedom behind us. Life’s hourglass empties for us all, so we’ve learned to uncork celebration in ordinary moments.
By midnight, many of you will be fast asleep, but the earlier hours of the evening still offer time for gratitude. While one of us rings in 2024 aboard a cruise ship somewhere between Sydney and Auckland, surrounded by fellow revelers, your celebration might be equally meaningful with close friends, watching Times Square festivities, or sharing an intimate dinner paired with something special.
Did you know that champagne producers see 80 percent of their annual sales during this holiday season? What a pity to relegate such a versatile wine to just one night. As a vintner in Epernay once told us while touring his caves: “Champagne doesn’t need an occasion. It creates one.” But since you’re likely among the 80 percent, let’s ensure you choose wisely.
Yes, prestige bottles like Cristal command $250, but excellent options are available for under $50. Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label, often discounted this time of year, hovers near $45. We recently found Bollinger for $50—less expensive than many California sparkling wines. Montaudon offers genuine champagne under $40, while Italian Prosecco and Spanish Cava deliver bubbles for even less. Collectively, champagne and sparkling wine offer better bargains than, say, cabernet sauvignon.
For New Year’s Eve, we still reach for true champagne. This night invites us to pause between memories and possibilities, between gratitude and hope. Such a moment deserves the gentle pop of a cork from Champagne, France.
If alcohol is a taboo for you, there are plenty of non-alcoholic alternatives that put festive bubbles into the glass and allow you to join the party without the buzz. Consider those from Josh Cellars, Freixenet, Giessen, Villa Sandi, and Odd Bird.
For all our faithful readers who have followed us since our column debuted in 1986, we wish you a very happy New Year. Here’s to another year of tasting good wine.
The following are some suggested wines to celebrate:
Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé ($75-85). Our favorite, this exquisite blend of chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir is known for its luxurious creaminess. Citrus and red berry notes make it a perfect match to shrimp, salmon and other seafood dishes.
Billecart-Salmon Le Sous Bois ($99). Uniquely vinified in oak, this champagne has the quality stamp from a revered champagne producer. All three grape varieties are used to produce an elegant yet assertive champagne with citrus and apple notes.
Louis Roederer Collection 245 ($60-70). The number represents the 245th blend since the producer’s foundation. Very smooth, rich and juicy with red fruit character and excellent balance.
Delamotte Rosé ($110-120). Floral aromas with peach cherry and raspberry flavors. More complex and longer in the finish than most champagnes.
Champagne Château de Bligny Grand Rosé Brut ($56). Fresh raspberry and strawberry notes with a good balance between acidity and fruit.
Scharffenberger Cellars Brut Excellence ($24). From Mendocino, this friendly sparkling wine has a toasty, yeast nose with citrus and pear flavors.
J Winery California Cuvee ($28). Easy to find, this cuvee has tropical fruit and apple notes.
Sea Smoke Sea Spray Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine 2020 ($90). From Sta. Rita Hills, this all-pinot-noir sparkling wine is superb with blueberry and citrus aromas followed by pear and almond flavors. Fresh acidity makes it a nice match to food. It has been aged in barrels for 12 months, giving it nice complexity.
Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé 2020 ($60). This producer makes two sparkling wines, but we enjoy the rosé the most. Ten percent chardonnay is added to the pinot noir to make a rich sparkling wine with white peach notes. The rosé adds a dash of color to any celebration.
Campo Viejo Brut Rosé ($13). If you are looking for an inexpensive sparkling wine and don’t like prosecco, try this cava from Spain. It’s drier than prosecco and has simple red fruit character and lots of bubbles.
Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut ($22). This is drinking beyond its reasonable price and suitable for any holiday dinner. Made primarily from pinot noir grapes, it has notes of pear and peach, with a creamy texture.
Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Brut Cuvee ($16). You can count on this producer for well-made wines, even if they may not be as distinctive as wines from a more specific appellation than “California.” New to the K-J portfolio, it is a blend of French colombard, pinot noir and chardonnay grapes.
Domaine Willamette Methode Traditionnelle Brut 2021 ($80). Using estate-grown pinot noir and chardonnay, this wine has good complexity, ripe pear and apple notes.
Wine picks
Jonata Todos Red Wine Vineyard Blend 2022 ($50). This is a motley but sturdy blend of 70 percent syrah, 15 percent petite sirah, 10 percent cabernet sauvignon, 3 percent merlot and 2 percent of what the winemaker calls “chaos.” From the Ballard Canyon appellation in Santa Ynez Valley, it is a wine to pair with beef, lamb or wild game. Dark in color with blackberry and plum flavors and hints of spice and tea.
Rodney Strong Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($60). From an historic and reputable producer, this reserve cabernet draws grapes from Alexander Valley and Knight’s Valley. Generous floral and cassis aromas with plush dark fruit and hints of vanilla and chocolate.
Tenuta Nadir Sicilia Syrah 2022 ($20). Effusive ripe fruit and spice aromas with forward red and dark berry flavors. A good value.
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