By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR
Of France’s main grape-growing regions, the Loire Valley is one of the least well-known. With the exception of the currently fashionable sauvignon blanc-based sancerres, most people would be hard pressed to identify another wine from this region. The Loire Valley is especially renowned for its many centuries-old castles that line the river, as well as for fruit and vegetable farming, which produces a large amount of fresh produce for Parisian markets.
Over the years, we have developed a fondness for some of the lesser-known wines from this region, especially its cabernet francs, pinot noir, and sauvignon blanc from the lesser-known appellations.
We recently tasted a selection of Loire Valley wines, prompting us to share our impressions. The wines varied tremendously, but each one interestingly reflected the grape variety and region from which it was grown.
We tasted a sparkling, aged Vouvray Domaine Pichot Clos St Mathurin Vouvray Méthode Traditionelle 2018 ($27). It was crafted in the methode traditionelle, requiring a secondary fermentation in the bottle as well as significant labor (riddling) to create the finished product. Vouvray is made from chenin blanc grapes and varies in sweetness depending on the winemaker’s style. This example was a little off dry with very ripe fruit notes of ripe peach, plum and baked apple. The current vintage is 2023 and will require patience to develop in a similar manner.
We especially enjoyed the Breton La Ritournelle Bourgueil Rosé 2024 ($32), which is made from Cabernet Franc grapes. This very flavorful rosé sports notes of peach, cherry, and strawberry. Bright acidity a wonderfully refreshing personality, it’s a real winner.
The lone red in the tasting showed the potential of Cabernet Franc in the right hands. The Domaine Fabrice Gasnier Chinon Les Graves 2023 ($22) is produced from 100 percent Cabernet Franc grapes. Beautiful dark red color with fresh notes of plums and herbs. Full-bodied and delicious.
To more fully explore the always interesting Loire Valley, readers also should seek out sauvignon blanc from the Menetou-Salon region, cabernet franc from Saumur- Champigny, as well as pinot noir from Sancerre.
Rosés
With warmer weather beginning to emerge, it’s time to re-engage with rosés. Even on cold days, a glass of the pink beverage will make you feel warm. We’ll be writing often about rosés during the summer. For now, here are a few to get you started:
Roseblood d’Estoublon Rosé 2024 ($30). This exceptional Provence blend of grenache, syrah, cinsault, rolle and semillon is generously floral with citrus and cherry flavors.
($21). A blend of grenache, syrah, and cinsault, this easy-drinking quaffer has cherry and raspberry notes with a round finish.
Serena Mode 0.0 Rosé 2024 ($15). Fresh strawberry notes with a dash of pomegranate. Simple yet gratifying.
Gassier Cotes de Provence 2025 ($25). A blend of grenache, cinsault, syrah and vermentino, this wine in an odd-shaped bottle has fresh, enjoyable raspberry and cherry fruit character.
Masseria Le Veli Torrerose Negromaro Salento IGT 2025 ($17). Made from the native grape grown in Puglia, this negromaro rosato offers fresh red-berry and citrus notes. Simple but quaffable.
Wine picks
St. Supery Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($60). Rich black cherry, plum and blueberry notes with layered nuances of chocolate, mocha, spice and herbs. This is a full-throttle wine with supple tannins that far exceeds its price point.
Aia Vecchia Vermentino Toscana 2024 ($17). A little vigonier is added to lift the aromatics of this easy-drinking vermentino. Tropical fruit and mango notes with bright, clean acidity.
G3 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2022 ($15). This is a ridiculously good buy for a Cabernet Sauvignon. Soft texture with rich cherry and plum notes and a hint of spice. It comes from Goose Ridge Vineyards.
Quinta da Fonte Souto White 2023 ($32). OMG, what a delicious wine! Made from arinto grapes, this concentrated, ripe wine from Portugal’s Alentjo region has great concentration and texture. Citrus and white peach notes abound with a bit of minerality. Smooth in the mouth.
Rhys Anderson Valley Estate Chardonnay 2023 ($49). Using special blocks from the estate’s Bearwallow Vineyard, this fresh and bright chardonnay offers up green apple and citrus notes with a vein of minerality.
Ehlers Portrait Red Blend 2022 ($75). This has to be one of the most attractive labels in California wine, but there’s more to the wine than Marta Botas’ creative image. In the bottle is a powerful yet approached blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot. Aromas of blackberries, nutmeg and sage give way to copious plum flavors.
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