A Taste Of Wines From The Rhone Valley

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

Most people who think of southern Rhone Valley think first of Chateauneuf du Pape, but for us we think first of the eight other crus that represent better values. Don’t get us wrong: we have collected Chateauneuf du Papes for decades and are still drinking the fabulous 2007s.  But for current drinking, we turn to the wines from Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Rasteau, and Cotes du Rhone.

Southern Rhone is mostly flat, but the wines from Gigondas are from vineyards on a slope as high as 1,000 feet, which provides the grapes a longer maturation period. These regions often have the same galets roules – smooth quartzite rocks left over from Alpine glaciers that blanket the top soil. Growing anything in this seemingly impenetrable soil seems improbable, but beneath this layer is a combination of limestone, clay and sand that forces the vines to squeeze between the rock. The result is an intense red wine from 100-year-old vines that drill deep for water.

Chateauneuf du Pape wasn’t an appellation until 1936 and everything else was labeled Cotes du Rhone. Eventually, the other crus were created when producers argued they had unique characteristics. Cairanne was the last appellation created in 2016.

The wines from Gigondas have risen in stature over the past decade and for good reason.  Their quality is much better because producers are focused on getting the most from the terroir.  Prices accordingly have risen as well, but there are still values to be found when you compare them to the prices of Chateauneuf du Pape.

While the wines from the more respected Chateauneuf du Pape region rely on 19 grapes varieties, those from the other appellations are focused primarily on grenache noir, syrah and mourvedre.  They are more peasant-like – bistro wines that go well with hamburgers, pizzas, barbecued foods and pasta.  Despite that easy-to-drink image, we recently tasted several full-bodied wines from the various crus that can stand up to beef and hearty stews.  For comparison, we tasted them alongside Chateauneuf du Papes from the same vintage.

These wines are generally heady with alcohol levels over 15 percent, so drinkers beware.

Here are several of the wines we really enjoyed:

Domaine de la Charbonniere Vacqueyras 2020 ($25). From a producer in its fourth generation, this blend of 60 percent grenache and 40 percent syrah is medium bodied with rich blackberry, cassis and black cherry notes, a good dose of spice and a brambly mouthfeel.

Domaine de las Charbonniere Chateauneuf du Pape 2018 ($37).  Elegant in style, this silky blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre has blackberry and blueberry notes with a dash of classic licorice. It’s one of the best values we’ve seen from this appellation.

Domaine des Bosquets La Colline Gigondas 2018 ($70).  Gigondas, once considered a poor man’s Chateauneuf du Pape, is probably our favorite southern Rhone appellation. Very big with fine tannins and durability, this exotic all-grenache has cassis, strawberry and blackberry fruit with a hint of plums and herbs.  You can easily pair this wine with a hearty winter stew.

Domaine Mordoree Lirac Dame Rousse 2019 ($30). An even blend of grenache and syrah, this blend from the Lirac appellation sports rich and yummy raspberry and cassis flavors.

Brusset Rasteau la Bastide 2020 ($30).  Mourvedre plays a strong supporting role to the grenache in this balanced and medium-bodied wine from the Rasteau appellation just north of Gigondas. Earthy with dark fruit and reduced balsamic notes and a hint of herbs. Light enough to go with burgers, pizza or just by itself – but not big enough to pair with beef.

Pierre Amadieu Romane Machotte Gigondas 2019 ($30). This reasonably priced wine has a garrigue feel – wild, hillside herbs of lavender, thyme, rosemary, juniper and sage. A blend of grenache and syrah, its fine tannins cloak a palate splash of strawberry and black cherry flavors with a spicy and black pepper finish.

Domaine de la Janasse Les Garrigue Cotes du Rhone 2018 ($52).  Fermented in concrete vats and aged in large foudres, this exemplary wine from a broad area rises above the common $15 versions. The producer uses only grenache grapes to create a full-bodied, rich wine with a very floral bouquet and loads of blackberry and licorice flavors.

Domaine Santa Duc Les Aubes Vacqueyras 2018 ($32).  From one of our favorite Rhone producers, this wine is 80 percent grenache and 20 percent syrah.  Juicy black cherry and plum flavors with hints of black pepper and licorice. A nice earthy touch reflects the terroir.

Domaine Oratoire St. Martin Reserve des Seigneurs Cairanne 2019 ($25). Not to be confused with the grape variety that carries a similar name, Cairanne is its own appellation. Ten generations of the Alary family have been making wine here for centuries. A blend of grenache and syrah, it has generous violet aromas and black fruit flavors. Very approachable and delicious.

St. Cosme Cotes Rhone 2022 ($21).  We love everything this producer makes. Even at this introductory level, the Cotes du Rhone exhibits complexity and depth with raspberry and blackberry notes.  While most wines from this cru are blends, this one is made exclusively from syrah grapes.

Mont-Redon Lirac 2020 ($29).  One of Tom’s most memorable vineyard tours was with the Abeille family at Mont-Redon in the late 1980s. Walking between the vines and over the formidable river pebbles that covered the surface, you get a feel for what makes the red blends from Lirac so delicious.  The vines struggle through the rock to extract the nutrients and water to produce its red fruit and spicy profile. It is a blend of syrah, grenache and mourvedre.

Wine picks

Ancient Peaks Oyster Ridge Santa Margarita Ranch 2020 ($60).  One of two of the producer’s excellent wines packaged in lighter bottles, this blend rocks. Cabernet sauvignon (75 percent) joins cabernet franc, petit verdot, merlot and malbec for a smooth palate ride. Plum and chocolate aromas mingle with black cherry and blueberry flavors laced with caramel, truffles and earth.

Cliff Edge Shiraz 2021 ($27). This robust shiraz from the Mount Lange
Ghiran region of Victoria, Australia, has fresh cherry and raspberry flavors with a hint of clove and black pepper. Fine tannins.

Riva Leone Gavi DOCG 2021 ($15).  We loved the simplicity of this all-cortese white wine from an underrated region of Italy.  Its pear and citrus notes mingle with the crisp acidity to make a nice sipper or a complement to seafood dishes.