A Taste Of Top Shelf Argentina Wines

Last week we wrote about our experiences tasting some of the value-oriented red and white wines from Argentina that are common on retailers’ shelves. Argentina also produces a number of higher-priced premium wines that can compete with the best from around the world.

Argentina has an extraordinarily long series of wine-growing regions that stretch from the north in Salta to the south in Patagonia, a distance of over 1,200 miles. Virtually all of the export quality wines, produced in this north/south area hugging the Andes Mountains, grow in eroded soils from the peaks. The area enjoys significant diurnal temperature swings — important for grape growing — and a very arid climate that keeps pests and diseases at bay.

We recently tasted a selection of both red and white top-shelf wines and were favorably impressed with the results. Following are our impressions.

Trapiche Gran Medalla Chardonnay Mendoza 2020 ($35-40). A very nice chardonnay featuring citrus and apple notes with a bit of cream in the finish.

Vina Cobos Vinculum Chardonnay Mendoza 2019 ($55). This is a project of Paul Hobbs. The California influence comes out in the lovely big tropical fruit notes, a hint of light toasty oak. and a bit of lemon. Our favorite of the whites.

Otronia No. 3 & No. 6 Chardonnay Patagonia 2019 ($90). The Patagonian cool climate shows in the mineral-driven apple and citrus notes in this wine.

Achaval Ferrer Quimera Mendoza 2019 ($40). This wine was extremely impressive, especially considering its reasonable price. An impressive blend of 59 percent malbec is melded with the four other classic red Bordeaux varietals and is unfined and unfiltered. With very low yields of only 1.3 tons per acre, it is a viscous intense wine featuring ripe plum and blackberry notes in a soft tannin robe. Our favorite of the red wine group.

Alta Visa Single Vineyard Albaneve Campo De Los Andes Valle De Uco Malbec 2018 ($50). A delightful wine made from 100 percent Malbec grapes and aged in all French oak. Mostly plum and cherry with a wee hint of vanilla.

Fabre Montmayou Grandvin Partida Limitada Red Wine Luhan De Cuyo 2019 ($54). Mostly malbec with a touch of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Aged in French oak this wine presents a very smooth experience with plum and vanilla notes. Very easy to quaff.

Otronia No. 1 Pinot Noir Patagonia 2019 ($90). Grown in the extremely cool-climate Patagonia region in south Argentina. Estate bottled using organic grapes, this pinot noir makes a bold lively impression on the palate of ripe and sour cherries.

Susana Balbo Nosotros Single Vineyard Nomade Malbec Valle De Uco Mendoza 2018 ($125). Okay, so this was our actual favorite of the reds, but the price was a bit off-putting. This is an outstanding wine that can compete with some of the best in Napa Valley. The aromas and tastes of plum, cherry, and cedar create a fantastic hedonistic experience. Aged in mostly new French oak for over a year. A truly great wine.

Trentodoc sparklers

While discussing sparkling wine with wine lovers, most consumers can reel off champagne, cava, prosecco and a variety of domestic producers.  If you mention Trentodoc, you’re likely to garner a blank stare. Given the paucity of selections available in the U.S., this sparkling wine producer in the northeastern region of Italy has earned its reputation for obscurity. Before World War I this mountainous region was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Following the war Italy achieved dominion over the area.

Only white and rosé sparkling wines are produced in this appellation. Sparkling wine is produced from the same grapes used to make French champagne and uses the same

production process. The result is a remarkably high-quality sparkling wine that in some cases compares favorably with the French version. Only about 2,800 acres produce grapes in Trentodoc to make their sparkling wine and remarkably 80 percent of their production is consumed in Italy.

We recently tasted 3 rosés from the region to familiarize our palates with this sparkling wine to assess for ourselves whether consumers should seek out this hard-to-find wine.

Our two favorites were the 2016 Rotari Trentodoc Rosé ($25) which is 75 percent pinot noir and 15 percent chardonnay. The sparkler presented a yeasty bready nose with strawberry and cherry flavors. A bright, very complete wine.

Next was the Ferrari Trentodoc Brut Rosé N/V ($35-40). Made from 60 percent pinot noir and 40 percent chardonnay. Again, the appealing yeasty nose with creamy berry notes. A very nice sparkler that is easy to drink.

Wine picks

True Myth San Luis Obispo Coast Pinot Noir 2022 ($28). This Central Coast region was named an AVA just last year.  This quaffable and reasonably priced version has classic cherry juicy strawberry flavors with a dash of spice.

San Salvatore Elea 2008 Campania 2018 ($20).  Most of this Italian wine from Campania is fermented in stainless steel to preserve the freshness of the Greco grape. Blessed by the maritime influences of the Med, it has stone fruit and olive notes with a thread of minerality.

Bodegas Alto Moncayo Garnacha 2020 ($50).   We were stunned by the depth of this garnacha from Campo de Borja, Spain.  Using grapes from old vines, it has jammy strawberry and black cherry flavors with a lot of spice and pepper to keep it interesting.

Cormorant Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($24). After spending 12 years at Fetzer, Charlie Gilmore launched his own label in 2018. Using organically grown grapes, he has created a balanced, pure and intense sauvignon blanc without the mouth-puckering grassy and grapefruit notes. White peach, citrus and ginger notes make it delicious.

Chalmers Felicitas 2019 ($42).  The Victoria region of Australia is getting some traction as new wines emerge on the American market.  This sparkling wine, made entirely of the grape fiano, is stunning.  We just didn’t expect to find something so fresh and tasty from a grape variety indigenous to Italy. Good acidity and notes of apples.