Thanksgiving Wines

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

Thanksgiving approaches once more, bringing with it the promise of feasts and fellowship—hopefully without the side dish of family drama that can sour even the sweetest gathering. Beyond gratitude for loved ones and life’s blessings, many of us secretly relish the chance to showcase our culinary prowess alongside carefully selected wines.

While the turkey remains a constant, it’s the supporting cast that evolves. Stuffing recipes have seen everything from wild mushrooms to dried fruits come and go with changing tastes. This year’s household debate: dare we abandon tradition for beef Wellington? (Thanksgiving purists might consider this heresy.)

Turkey’s mild flavor makes it an accommodating partner for most wines, save for the heaviest reds like cabernet sauvignon or barolo. We prefer offering both red and white options, letting guests discover their own perfect pairing.

Consider building your Thanksgiving libations in stages: begin with the festive pop of champagne to set a celebratory tone, then transition to versatile rosé with appetizers—it complements everything from vegetable platters to charcuterie.

For the main event, chardonnay’s creamy texture harmonizes beautifully with gravy while respecting turkey’s subtle flavors. Alternatively, riesling offers aromatic complexity without overwhelming the star of the show.

Red wine devotees need not compromise—reach for lighter-bodied grenache or pinot noir, or the fruit-forward simplicity of beaujolais.

Calorie-conscious guests should note: while dry wines contain just 1-2 grams of residual sugar per glass, dessert wines like port pack 7-8 grams into the same pour.

Here are a few wines we like:

Jim Barry Wines Watervale Riesling 2023 ($15). This is a great deal if your fancy turns to riesling. We loved the bright citrus flavor, which would make a great starter for any holiday feast. It has the versatility to pair well with appetizers or a variety of entrees.

Appassionata GG Riesling 2018 ($50). This is German winemaker Ernst Loosen’s passion in the Chehalem Mountains of Oregon. From older vines, this riesling can age, but for now it packs a lot of flavor and balance. GG means great growth in German.

Far Niente Napa Valley Chardonnay 2023 ($76). This producer established its creds on chardonnay long ago.  It remains a star with its classic bowl of fruit character: melon, lime, nectarine, white peach aromas with zesty citrus flavors.

Resonance Willamette Valley Chardonnay 2023 ($40). Fresh peach and citrus notes with balanced acidity.

Cambria Katherine’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 ($22). This is an excellent value, especially if you are feeding a large crowd. Fresh apple flavors with hints of vanilla and spice.

Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2023 ($75). From what is considered one of the best vintages in the last decade, this opulent chardonnay is fitting for the most extravagant feasts. Luxurious mouthfeel with ripe pear and citrus flavors with hints of apple and minerality.  One of the best from Napa Valley.

Bouchaine Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay 2023 ($40).  This iconic producer makes several chardonnays from its Carneros estate vineyards planted in 1984. This one has apple and citrus aromas with flavors of apple and lemon curd. There is also an unoaked version for the same price that we tasted alongside this one and a full-bodied reserve chardonnay that is exquisite and lush—perfect for a holiday feast.

Wente Family Vineyards Riva Ranch Chardonnay 2024 ($24). This wine from Arroyo Secco is a terrific value. Rich, ripe apple flavors with some buttery character that makes this wine an excellent match to gravy and turkey.

Davis Bynum Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2023 ($30). This reasonably priced, special chardonnay golden apple and lush honeysuckle notes with hints of toasted hazelnuts.

J Vineyards Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2022 ($40). Citrus and almond aromas with tropical fruit and pear flavors and a dash of butterscotch.

Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022 ($105). Fresh and vibrant cherry and raspberry flavors with a touch of spice and everything nice. Silky mouthfeel and long in the finish with a bit of minerality.

Whitehall Lane Sonoma Stage Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 ($50). From the Petaluma Gap, this medium-bodied pinot noir has fresh cherry and raspberry notes with good acidity and balance. It is not over-extracted, which makes it a better match with turkey and sides.

Early Mountain Novum, Virginia 2022 ($60). The wines from this producer continue to impress us with their depth and character. This bend of cabernet franc, merlot and tannat has good structure and complexity but is still approachable because of its fresh fruit character.

Wente Baily Hill Pinot Noir 2022 ($20). Sourcing grapes from the Central Coast, this producer has created a simple pinot noir with bing cherry and strawberry flavors.

Dolce Liquid Gold Napa Valley 2021 ($123). Always a special wine for us, this sweet blend of semillon and sauvignon blanc is made in a style of sauterne.  Huge aromas of orange marmalade and honey with apricot and citrus flavors and lots of spice and rich texture. This would be great with a peach or apple pie.

La Vieille Ferme Rouge 2023 ($12). This light and simple with vibrant red fruit and spice character would make a good match with appetizers.

Mommessin Saint- Amour Grandes Mises 2023 ($28-35). This cru beaujolais has strawberry, red raspberry, and cherry notes. Delicious.

Wine pick

Chateau de Valcombe Costieres de Nimes 2023 ($30). This is a juicy blend of syrah and grenache from Rhone Valley. Unique flavor profile with earthy, garrigue notes. Blackberry and olive flavors.