How The Wood Of Wine Barrels Makes For A Different Taste

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR      

One of the first cases of wine we ever bought was the 1978 Torres Black Label from Rioja, a unique wine at the time because the producer used Cabernet Sauvignon instead of the native grape tempranillo. Rioja wasn’t the only region breaking from tradition at the

time – Piedmont and Rhone winemakers also were eschewing indigenous grape varieties in favor of the noble grapes of Bordeaux. Their reasoning was similar: why should we stick with local grapes when foreign varieties would improve our wines and our standing in the international market? And why shouldn’t we adopt modern winemaking styles if they work?

Rioja has gone through several phases since the 1980s, and not all of them have been prosperous for producers. But despite the pains, the tempranillos and garnachas we taste today are very exciting. These wines consistently represent some of the best values on the market.

Rioja producers have swung back and forth between a traditional style that embraces customs established hundreds of years ago to a more modern style that is focused on terroir and flexibility. Knowing the difference will help you navigate the market to find the Riojas you most enjoy.

Historically, red Riojas have been formally classified according to the time they spend in oak. A Crianza spends one year in used oak barrels and a few additional months in the bottle. These are the least expensive wines and show little oak flavor. Reserva wines, considered to be the most balanced, are aged at least one year in oak barrels and two years in the bottle. Gran Reserva wines demand at least two years in oak and three years in the bottle before being released. These are the most expensive and commonly judged to be the best, although there is a heavy presence of oak.

Traditional, or classic, Rioja producers favor American oak, which is cheaper than French barrels and used to make Spanish sherry. American oak is much more aggressive and imparts vanilla and toast flavors. Over the years, this potent flavor profile has encountered its share of critics.  Rioja has struggled to gain respect in an international market that has preferred French oak for its complex red wines.

Today, however, there are many producers – notably Allende and Artadi – who have embarked on a more modern approach.  You won’t find a classification on the label because the producers care less about fitting neatly into a required maturation window and more about aging their wines to whatever degree makes the best wine. These producers are using French oak barrels, introducing Cabernet Sauvignon to the blend, harvesting grapes later, and crafting wines with more body and fruit extraction. They are more focused on getting the best out of the terroir rather than the barrel. The wines are fresher and more nuanced because they are smothered by spending so much time in American oak.

Despite the trend, some of the most historic producers, such as Lopez de Heredia, Marques de Murrieta, CVNE, and Muga, have remained committed to the traditional style of lighter tempranillos that are more akin to Burgundy than Bordeaux. There is still much to be said about the Riojas that have finesse, elegance, and do better with food.

A recent tasting we conducted among a few wine collectors revealed the stark differences. The baseline was a 2008 Lopez de Heredia Reserva Vina Bosconia, an incredible wine with a lot of texture appeal despite being 17 years old. Blended with 15 percent garnacha and 5 percent granciano and mazuelo, this wine was light in color, round in the mouth with ripe red fruit and hints of leather and spice. It faded quickly, but it was exquisite. Lopez de Heredia, which has been making wines in Rioja for 148 years, has steadfastly refused to yield to the modern style.

Marques de Murrieta also makes tempranillo with a classic formula. However, it has introduced a modern wine as a nod to the popular modern trend. The 2016 Dalmau Rioja was one of our favorite wines of the tasting. Low crop yields limit the production of this wine, but the result is an expressive wine – more aromatic, fuller in body and bolder in style.

We also tasted the splendid Marques de Murrieta Desde 1852 Rioja 2020 ($30). The date notes the producer’s founding. It is a blend of tempranillo, mazuelo, graciano and garnacha. Balanced with dried cherry and cedar notes.

The 2005 Artadi Pagos Viejos showed how modern Riojas can age. The grapes come from a vineyard planted in 1945. The wine spent 23 months in French oak, and 15 percent of the blend is cabernet sauvignon – a common recipe for modern Riojas.

Among the current releases we tasted were the 2017 Allende, 2019 Macan and 2018 Bosque. These modern wines aren’t cheap, but they rank among the best in Rioja and demonstrate that these wines can stand among their counterparts in France.

Although not made from tempranillo, the Vina Monty Graciano 2016 ($90) is worthy of note. To honor the winery’s 150^th anniversary, Bodegas Monticello released three ultra-premium wines in the U.S. market last year. This one, made from graciano grapes, is still fresh despite its age. Lots of luscious blueberry flavors. Very different.

Bodegas Monticello also makes a decent crianza ($14) that remains a great value. Blended with some garnacha, it is light with fresh red fruit character.

Bodegas Valdemar in Rioja Spain offers a full range of classic Rioja wines. The Conde Valdemar Bianco DOC Rioja 2024 ($18) is produced using mostly the iconic Rioja white grape viura. In addition, malvasia, sauvignon blanc, and garnacha blanca are included in the mix. The result is a very expressive white wine with a fruity nose and flavors of pear, peaches and lemon. The thirst-quenching acidity is perfect, resulting in a great summertime wine that is a joy to drink.

We also tasted the Conde Valdemar Rosé DOC Rioja 2024 ($18). This bright pink wine, made from 80 percent garnacha and 20 percent viura, presents scents and flavors of cherry and strawberry with a delightful creamy finish. A very satisfying glass of wine.

While these modern wines have gained respect, they represent a small portion of what’s coming from the region. Consumers are more likely to find Riojas that continue to be classified as crianza, reserva or gran reserva. Many of these far exceed their price points in quality. But, if you prefer a bolder style, look for a Rioja that doesn’t have any of these designations on the label. That’s the case with Allende, Dalmau, Artadi, Gil, Mendoza, Alvaro Loza and others.