A New Yorker, Turned Californian Grew Up To Own Vineyards Around The World

By Tom Marquardt And Patrick Darr

Paul Hobbs is an icon in California, but he didn’t start out as one. One of 11 children, he grew up on a farm in upper state New York, where he learned how soils can affect the flavors of fruit. With the encouragement of his father, he studied winemaking and converted part of the family property into a vineyard. His success eventually led him to California where he launched the fabled Opus One and then steered the winemaking teams at Simi, Peter Michael and Lewis. With the help of investors, he launched Paul Hobbs Winery in 1991.

At each location he never lost sight of farming – or the fascination of finding a unique place to plant vines. Today, he owns vineyards in Cahors (France), Armenia, Galicia (Spain) and Argentina.

His interest in Argentina stemmed from his experience at Bodegas Catena, a well-respected leader in Mendoza. After making two vintages there and learning what the sub-appellations could produce, he wanted to launch his own winery. But he knew the politics would require local partners, so he enlisted his wife, a native of Argentina, to help.

“On a bus ride from Mendoza to San Rafael, she got up and got everyone’s attention,” Hobbs said. “She said, ‘Look, my husband wants to start a winery. Is anyone interested in being his partner?’ And that’s basically how I found my first partner.”

Two newlyweds provided $70,000 in 1997 to launch Vina Cobos, but the focus was “strictly to study the nobility of malbec in the upper Mendoza River zone,” he said.

The first year was a weather disaster and the $70,000 seed money evaporated like a raindrop on hot pavement. They didn’t recover until 1999, but Hobbs’ debut was a success among critics. It wasn’t until 2006 that they were able to make wines in their own facility. Because of difficulties stemming from the weather, politics and economy, it took 4 difficult years for Vina Cobos to get its stride.

Hobbs applied the same wand of excellence to Vina Cobos that he did to Opus One, Paul Hobbs Winery and everywhere else where he concentrated on making exclusively premium wines. But he was challenged by growing grapes in a region known for its lack of rainfall.

We joined Hobbs in an online video tasting of two Bramare malbecs produced at Vina Cobos – the 2022 Lujan de Cuyo and Valle de Uco.

Both were extraordinary wines, as you expect from Hobbs, but slightly different because of soil and climate differences.  The Lujan de Cuyo benefits from the coolness that comes from an adjacent river. Its soil is clay loam with pebblestone beneath it. On the other hand, Valle de Uco has little topsoil and a lot of rock and boulders. The roots are fine as they struggle between the rock, so much so that Hobbs called them “root hair.”

Cobbs said that the rock and boulders provide the vines with warmth in cooler nights, so the differences between the two vineyards are not that dramatic.

We tasted differences in depth and texture. The Lujan de Cuyo was rounder and more elegant with bright red fruit character while the Valle de Uco was bolder with more tannin and highlighted by black fruit flavors and hints of spice.

At $55 a bottle, these wines are among the best we have tasted from Argentina.

Wines from Oregon

Archery Summit Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2022 ($65). Dundee Hills continues to produce outstanding pinot noirs and this one is a good example. Forward strawberry notes with a good dose of spice and soft tannins.

Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Laurelwood District 2022 ($47). This is an easy, satisfying well balanced pinot noir. Cherry fruit elements both sweet and tart create a lively drink.

Penner-Ash Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2021 ($60). A bit deeper and richer than many Oregon pinot noirs. Ripe cherry and berry notes with a pleasant hint of oak.

WillaKenzie Estate Cuvee Chardonnay 2021 ($75). From the Yamill-Carlton region of Oregon, this balanced and understated chardonnay has bright acidity but a creamy finish. Apple, spice and vanilla notes.

Charles Krug                                                                                                      

Charles Krug is the oldest family-owned estate winery in Napa Valley and is still owned by the Mondavi family. The Charles Krug Generations Napa Valley 2019 ($85) is a delightful Bordeaux-style blend of red grapes of 87 percent cabernet sauvignon with a bit of merlot and petite Verdot added. Aged in new French oak barrels this red wine displays deep fruit notes and soft tannins. Very smooth and elegant. The Charles Krug Merlot Napa Valley 2022 ($30) is a very nice well -priced red wine for merlot lovers. Bold yet mellow with enticing cherry, chocolate notes.

Wine picks

La Scolca Gavi Dei Gavi Sur Lie 2022 ($45-50). A delightful dry white wine from Piedmonte in Italy. Intense mineral and lemon citrus notes and a pleasant mid-palate creaminess. A terrific wine for fish or chicken.

Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley 2021 ($53). A very well-balanced cabernet sauvignon displaying ripe mixed berry and cherry elements. A decent value for a premium California cabernet sauvignon.

Ehlers Estate Cabernet Franc Napa Valley St. Helena 2021 ($80). Pricey but this wine offers an insight into cabernet franc when allowed to fully ripen. Elegant and effusive ripe fruit are apparent. Very drinkable.

Tinto Nero Cabernet Franc Uco Valley 2022 ($17).  This incredibly delicious and quaffable wine would make a great match with ribs, pulled pork and other barbecue fare.  Generous violet and blueberry aromas with fresh red fruit flavors and a dash of minerality.