By Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr
White wines from Bordeaux aren’t top of mind to many American consumers, despite that the U.S. is the number one destination for them. Consumers tend to associate this French region with red wines while missing out on the alternative.
The primary grapes for white Bordeaux production are sauvignon blanc, semillon, muscadelle and sauvignon gris. Two distinctive styles command their personalities with most Bordeaux appellations crafting light, fruity, no-oaked wines dominated by sauvignon blanc and sold at consumer-friendly prices. A second style is a small amount of very expensive wine made in the Pessac-Leognan region from sauvignon blanc and semillon that often sees some oak aging.
White Bordeaux wines span the gamut of styles and the flavor spectrum. The amount of sauvignon blanc in the blend sets the tone for crispness and acidity as well as expressing certain fruit notes. More sauvignon blanc usually means a lighter, crisper experience with herb and citrus elements dominating. More semillon and the blend softens the wine and adds a more textured mouthfeel with pear and tropical fruit more apparent.
We tasted three white Bordeaux selections that spanned the spectrum of the region’s offerings. First up with a very heavy sauvignon blanc blend (90 percent) was the Chateau La Grande Metairie Entre-Deux-Mers 2021 ($15-17). The most austere of our samples, it had a bright profile that included herbs and citrus notes in a very lively package. Very food friendly for chicken and fish dishes.
Chateau Haut-Columbier Blaye Cotes De Bordeaux Blanc 2021 ($18-23) is made from organic grapes. This delightful offering has less sauvignon blanc (60 percent), 30 percent semillon and a dash of muscadelle. The result is a softer presentation in the mouth with herb scents and a hint of mint. Pear and herb notes dominate the flavors with ample acidity and a smooth finish.
At the other end of the spectrum was the Chateau Ducasse Bordeaux 2021 ($20). It is a blend of 70 percent semillon and 30 percent sauvignon blanc. Here we found notes of tropical fruits and a smooth elegant mouthfeel with lime notes in the finish. An amazingly quaffable bottle of wine, and one of our favorites.
Bordeaux also produces a limited amount of sparkling wine that is usually marketed as a crémant, as well as rosé crafted from classic Bordeaux varietals.
Cremant De Bordeaux is not well known or easy to find — it only attained official status in 1990. However, that doesn’t diminish the quality of the Lois Vallon Cremant De Bordeaux Brut ($15-18). Merlot, cabernet franc, semillon, and muscadelle are used in this sparkling wine. The result is a delightful, fruity experience with notes of pear and apple with a hint of citrus and at a great price.
We also tasted a still rosé that we found very appealing. The Clarendelle Rosé Bordeaux 2021 ($16) from Clarence Dillon Wines are also owners of first-growth Chateau Haut-Brion. The rosé presents delicious fresh fruit notes of strawberry and cherry in a very agreeable lighter style. Crafted from cabernet franc grapes.
Wine picks
Juggernaut Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2021 ($20). A great white shark adorns this creative label of chardonnay. But behind the label is a melagé of granny smith apples and peaches with layered hints of vanilla, clove and lime. Good value in chardonnay.
Benziger Estate Bella Luna Pinot Noir 2021 ($55). From a vineyard in the Russian River Valley, this delightful pinot noir has a pure fruit expression with varietal cherry notes and layers of spice and cola flavors.
Cuvaison Estate Pinot Noir 2021 ($42). This bright and tasty pinot noir from the Carneros region of Napa Valley sports fresh blackberry and strawberry notes with a hint of tea.
Textbook Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($46). Cabernet sauvignon dominates this Bordeaux-varietal blend from the Pey Family collection. Big and bold character with dark berry flavors, fine tannins and hints of black currant and tobacco leaf.
Mira Napa Valley Hyde Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2018 ($95). Cabernet franc doesn’t get much bigger or more delicious than this blockbuster from Carneros. Blueberry and plum fruit with a dose of espresso.
Fairview Wine Goats Do Roam Red Blend Western Cape 2021 ($12-15). A very agreeable red blend from South Africa crafted from mostly shiraz along with other classic Rhone varietals and a dollop of tempranillo and durif. Clean ripe red fruit featuring cherry and plum notes in a very pleasant package.
Josh Cellars Hearth Cabernet Sauvignon California 2020 ($18). Another consumer-pleasing wine from the wildly popular Josh Cellars. It is an unabashedly bold cabernet sauvignon crafted from very ripe fruit and sporting a higher level of alcohol at 14.5 percent. Jammy berry fruits with a hint of mocha dominate the sensory experience.
Chalk Hill Chardonnay Estate Chalk Hill AVA Sonoma County 2020 ($52). This is wow wine! Intense honey, tropical fruit and luscious toasty oak combine to create a delicious package. It gets 100 percent French oak fermentation and aging and no filtration.
Line 39 Merlot California 2019 ($16). It is hard to beat the price/quality ratio of this wine. Cherry and plum notes in a light oak frame produce a very pleasant quaff.
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